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About Drumz87

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    Power User
  • Birthday 06/30/1969

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    New Orleans, La
  • Interests
    Live Music<br />Professional Audio<br />Hi Fi Audio<br />Classic Cars<br />Diesel Trucks<br />
  1. My Xti 4000's are all using DSP for the last 4 years for crossover and eq settings for the JBL SRX boxes i use in my systems. I have 9 different programs are set up for full range, bi amp with and without a sub and bridge mono mode. Less cabling headaches on set up and teardown! I use the XTI 4000's on my monitor system and on my 'wedding PA' system where I am lucky to get one 20amp circuit just for house PA! No problems...
  2. I have the same system you have mentioned. I run all 4 728S with 2 IT6000's and 4 722 mid drivers with 2 IT6000's and 1 IT4000 for all 4 HF drivers. PLENTY of headroom. I find the IT4000 overkill for the HF drivers and would suggest an Xti 1000 for the HF section. An alternative would be to bridge an Xti 4000 into each 728s and each mid pack. I have all my amps programmed to push any box in my speaker compliment including biamping the 712m monitors. I did this incase some of the amps go down, I always have backup with the programs ready to go plus it will always be consistent! PG
  3. XTI-4000 and MRX525

    Here is the direct link. http://www.jblpro.com/tunings/index.htm HEY! How did you do that? I can work the IQwic programs, but cant get a friggin' link to pop up on this forum...I'm terrible!
  4. Mike, In my opinion, it would be best to get another IT-6000 for a few reasons. First, you already have 2 in your amplifier arsenal that you are happy with. You could, and I highly suggest, you program all your amps to have the capability to cover all of the frequency ranges and all speaker cabinets you employ for your system. This makes each amp as versitle as possible. The power output will be consistant no matter what job they are assigned to do. Second, keep in mind that these are 4ohm amplifiers. You will only get the maximum power out of the amps if you drive them at 4 ohms per channel. That 8000 will deliver the 4000 watts per channel at 4 ohms. It will DROP output power if you bring it down to 2 ohms thus getting an output of 3500 watts per channel. Who makes a speaker that can handle 4000 watts peak? I think EAW has a dual driver subwoofer cabinet with peak power rating of 3600 watts at 4 ohms... thats alot of thump! Last, The clients I service have had few issues with B stock items. In fact, no more than what I have expirienced with new amplifiers. The nice thing about the ITs is that you can see how many hours the unit has been powered up, so you'll have an idea of how 'OLD' the amp really is. Besides, with the no fault warranty, you can just ship it back to Crown if a problem should arise. Good luck in your decision!
  5. XTI-4000 and MRX525

    BlackT5, You can actually get the settings JBL reccomends off of their website at JBLPRO.com. You can print a copy of the data or download the file directly on your computer. Then, plug in the parameters, and go to town. It takes all the guess work out of the settings. Then, change the output levels to your taste. Enjoy!
  6. Xti 4000 with JBL MRX518s

    Hmm.. I'll think about that one...
  7. Itech 8000 question

    I would opt for another IT-6000 amp for a few reasons. First, your sub boxes will be underpowered once the power is divided amongst your cabinets thus reducing their performance capability. Second, to acheive the 8000 watts from the It-8000 amp, it has to be run at a 4 ohm load which will yeild 4000 watts per channel. As soon as you drop the load to 2 ohms, then the power output decreases to 3500 watts. However, your subs program power are specd at 1700 watts, peak at 3400 watts which is why, in my opinion, you should get another IT-6000. Also, do an expiriment with your existing cabinets. Run your system with your favorite program material playing at a good volume. Then, with the music playing mute your sub amp. Connect BOTH sub cabinets to one channel of the IT-6000 and unmute that channel. You should notice a big difference in the performance of your subs. Some may argue with an 8000, you'll get more headroom, however, the point is each box still will not see the 1700 watts continuous required to perform to spec. Its like buying a Porche 911 and powering it with a 1100cc VW motor.
  8. Which amp to go with

    Bull, I would suggest you to purchase 2 Xti-2000 amps. The amp power output at 8ohms is 475watts, and at 4 ohms is 800 watts stereo. This would be a good match for those speakers. Also, the speaker tunings are available on JBLPRO.com website so you will be able to program the DSPs in each amplifiter to match the settings for each speaker cabinet perfectly. Enjoy!
  9. Xti 4000 with JBL MRX518s

    I use one Xti4000 in Bridge mono into a pair of SRX718S subs and it does an excellent job with plenty of thump and headroom. The best feature of all is being able to 'tune' the amps DSP to match the box specs which is available directly on the JBL website. If you do purchase the MRX518s, you will NOT be able to bridge one into your set of speakers. However, from the power requirements you have listed, you will get 1200 watts at 4ohms per channel in stereo mode with an Xti4000 which looks to be a good match for those speakers. Good Luck!
  10. When buying an open box product from any store, be cautious that it may not be 100% functional. Lets face it, you get what you pay for. Although, you may have saved a few bucks by buying it as an open box item, but now you will be pulling your hair out trying to get service from the place you purchased it from. Lucky for you that CROWN offers a 3 year NO FAULT warranty on their products, so my suggestion is to pack that puppy up in the box, and ship back to the factory so they can fix it right the FIRST TIME. I wouldn't suggest sending it to your local repair shop. They will give you the run aroung just like the "BIG BOX" music store did, plus you'd probably spend less to ship it to Crown than your local repair shop will charge you just to figure out what the issue is with the unit (if they aren't guessing what the problem is!)
  11. A 'fanless' amp for your application is probably a K1 Crown. Check the power requirements of your speakers first. Although, the Xti fan noise isn't loud.
  12. JBL MPro

    The speaker in the MPro 418 is a JBL VGC 2241 H (8ohm) or G (4ohm) speaker. However, you may also want to try a pair of SR-X 4718 subs as well. The speakers were identical until the SR-X model was eventually loaded with a JBL VGC 2242HPL high powered 800watt rms speaker. If you look hard enough thru the internet, you can still find some online stores with stock of either MPro or SR-X cabinets. And if you are really set on getting those series speakers, EBAY would be another venue to search for old stock of those series speakers. Good luck in your search!
  13. I-Tech Power cable

    Ned, Order the set directly from Crown. Since the amp has a universal PS, there are many different cord sets that come with the amp. They are useful if you plan to do a show on a cruise ship too! lol
  14. If you are worried about pushing your speakers 'too hard', rest assured that you have plenty of protection within the amplifier to keep from 'blowing up' your speakers! Also, i highly reccomend that you go to the JBL webside and download the speaker tunings for your VRX boxes. They spend alot of time and money on research and development of these boxes to make them sound phenomenal! Its right in the palm of your hands! Bridge mono. Everyones fear. Well, in all of my years of installs (20+), I have seen way too many amps (all brands) fry because of mismatched speaker loads and improper speaker connection. Read the amplifier manual. Make sure the speaker impedance load matches the capablility of the amp. Be sure the input and output connections are correct. Its that simple. I use this phrase all the time. "Would you drive your car 55mph in first gear?" You could, but your engine wouldn't last long. Its the same with amps. Make sure the amps and speakers compliment eachother, hook them up correctly, and you will have no problems! My direct knowlege of pro audio interconnection is due to reading manuals and reccomendations from the manufacturers. I am no rocket scientist. I am a pro installer that is an audiophile, sound engineer, and musician. I just do what the manuals tell me to do. But the real challenge I face is to figure out what best suits my clients needs within their budjet! So I guess to answer your question of 'to bridge or not to bridge?' BRIDGE! But I'd reccomend to use 2 Xti-4000s to power your speakers...
  15. The Speakers you have handle 800 watts continuous, 1600 watts program, and 3200 watts peak input power. I have installed a few dozen of these in churches and used IT6000s full range and XTi 4000s bridged on them which matched the box perfectly with plenty of headroom. When choosing amps, be sure to look at how the power is being rated. The ITs are tested with a 20-20k frequency range where the Xtis are tested at 1K. Sure, the XTi 2000 may produce the 1600 watts 8 ohms bridged at 1K, but as soon as you have a real time impedance load and 20-20k program, that 1600 watts will surely be cut consideribly, plus the loss of power due to heat in the crossover networks, you may only be getting 1200 watts at the end of the line. I always attempt to spec speakers to the PEAK power rating to make sure the speaker gets the correct program power, and in turn, the extra headroom will not stress the amplifier trying to push the speakers when they really get PUSHED! I'd suggest either get one IT-6000 to power a pair of VRX932LA or 2 Xti-4000s bridged at 8 ohms (2400 watts @ 1K).