• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 1001US

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
  1. CEAS2

    The fan only turns on when it gets hot. Otherwise, it won't turn on.
  2. Older VS Newer CE2000 issue

    Word em up. Aside from the XLS (which I'm over) there's a reason why I only use crown as well.
  3. Older VS Newer CE2000 issue

    Just called my friend who is now the assistant manager of Guitar Center in beaverton. Went over the scenario. The amplifier was sold as a CE2000 per the sales recipt, he says I am supposed to work with you regarding this as there was nothing guitar center reps could have done, as it was probably placed in the wrong box as well. I have the original recipt which states CE2000, and the serial that was scanned is identical to that of the amplifier. Perhaps we should move this discussion to email?
  4. Older VS Newer CE2000 issue

    Ok well I have pictures I can provide of the internals of the two different amps... which probably also voids the warranty on my newer CE2000 (DOH!) but it very distinctively has the front CE2000 decal, and on the original recipt, it says CE2000... but on the back plate it says CE1000, and the visual difference is blatantly obvious. This would also explain why I am getting drastically less power than the other amplifier. So, is there anything I can do? Will you guys honor a replacement or swap for this amplifier despite it's age? It's a great amp, but I started to use it for the purposes of bridged mono and than discovered it was infact only a CE1000? This amp was purchased on 8-16-01... so it's over five years old, and I just now discovered the issue. Previous to this I'd been running it stereo, and just assuming the amp clipped out easy. I have now discovered that it is infact a mislabeled amplifier.
  5. Older VS Newer CE2000 issue

    Okay and I just discovered an entirely new issue, that really makes this ridiculously complex... The amplifier says CE2000 on the front, and on the original recipt from guitar center. Today, while looking it all over, I was vaccuming it out from all the dust it collected over this years outdoor season, and noticed something. Right next to the place where the plug goes into the amplifier... it said CE1000, rate at 400 watts at 8 ohms yada yada. So um... is this really a CE1000 maybe? Could I submit a serial from the back to check it or something? This really is funky... Just incase guitar centere hussled me years ago... I'll post the serial. As best as I can tell it's this number, which has a serial code right next to it on a sticker still on the back of the amplifier: 677197
  6. Allright, well last I posted I had two crown XLS 602's attempting to get 4 ohms mono bridged from them. I returned one, and upgraded it to a CE2000, as I already had owned one for a few years now. The new CE2000 delivers AMAZING bass! I'm quite happy with the results I get with it. However, it's the older CE2000 that I'm having issues with. Right off the bat I noticed the newer CE2000 is black... and the older one is grey. The new one has a switch for both input voltage and for the mono/stereo setting, while the old one only has a mono/stereo switch. Now, here's where my issue comes up. I attempted the same 4 ohm load on both amplifiers, run in mono. The older amplifier will run into clipping LONG before the newer model. A full 10db of gain before the newer amplifier off of my dbx crossover. The older amplifier however, seems to be functioning fine... it works great for my mids, and still delivers decent bass up until clip, but it surely is not even close to what I'm getting out of the newer CE2000. So, I'm wondering if it's one of two things... if it's that the switch may be defective to switch from stereo to mono... (although, I suppose it wouldn't reproduce bass right than when wired would it?) or if maybe it has something to do with the voltage switch? Maybe the older model CE2000's are inferior to the new ones? The main thing I am posting here for is a for what you would do to test the switch with a multimeter to make sure it's working (I'm past waranty on this amp). Is there a way to test if the switch is moving the amplifier over to mono thats easier perhaps? Is there anything I should know thats changed between the older model and the nwe model? Maybe you guys will be really nice and just let me ship in the old one for a new one, cause I've bought so many of your products, and come tax return I'm probably going to buy more
  7. Your right. I was silly to trust that your company would proceed like the rest of the industry, in the standard that when you give something a 4 ohm rating, that it can handle it. It also can handle fluctuations in ohm rating, as we're all aware a speakers value is trulely nominal. I honestly feel your company has abused this industry standard. While I'm fully aware it's a lot to ask of a low end amp, when it is rated that low I expect it to be able to deliver, much like every other brand out there. "There is no simple way to characterize the impedance of a load, a fact that doesn’t keep people from trying.” Saying that a 4-ohm load is a 4-ohm load, based off the nominal impedance, and that an amp should handle it because it is “rated for it” doesn’t take into account what the load is actually doing." I would like to see a "4 ohm" load that it can actually handle, at full power, for an extended period of time without overheating (at room temperature). I also, out of curiosity, would like to know just how many 4 ohm groupings DON'T drop down below 4 ohm. I honestly don't think they're in the majority, however i may be wrong and I magically have the minority of 4 ohm groupings that does infact dip below 4 ohms.
  8. The XS series is rated to only to 8 ohms mono bridged everywhere I have seen documentation. While it is an "Entry level amplifier" it is meant to compete with other brands "entry level amplifiers" like the QSC RMX series, which actually delivers at 4 ohms mono bridged. This amp is rated to 4 ohms mono bridged as well, but doesn't deliver what you said it should. If the amplifier overheats and has issues, it shouldn't be rated that low. While I'm aware the speakers dip, almost ALL speakers do that. In using an amplifier like this I could understand degraded sound quality, however popping and massive overheating, means it just can't handle a "4 ohm nominal load" and shouldn't be rated that low. Your muscle car comparison is a very true one, however if I buy a car that says it can run a 15 second quarter mile... and the industry standard is that when you say that it delivers that... and it infact isn't even close, the consumer has a reason to be let down. Why would you release an amplifer rated to handle these loads, which it can't handle? I'm aware it's rated to 4 ohms bridged and no lower, and if going below 4 ohms is impossible with this amp, than maybe you should pull the 4 ohm specifications off of it. How many speaker groupings, at a 4 ohm nominal rating, actually sit exactly at 4 ohms and never go below it? In my experience... none... and it is consitently posted accross these forums that when you goto four ohms you'll often drop below as the speakers rating is purely nominal. I'm moving into the CE series to power my subs but I'm very let down by the XLS series of amplifiers. I was hoping that this product would be able to deliver what it said it could. It shouldn't be rated this low, espescially with a 20hz to 20khz frequency rating. If I overheated it just running 40-100 hz, I could only imagine what two full range cabinets at 4 ohms would do to the cabinet.
  9. Ok. I'm aware of the bass line issues. I actually mostly work with DNB, and our basslines are ultra thick, sometimes drawn out over an entire bar, and pitch shifting into another note, instead of going silent at all. In essence we put hip hop to shame when it comes to taxing an amplifier. Anyways, I do run the amp as you suggested. The popping due to current limiting makes sense, however this is noticably before hitting the supposed 1680 watts at 4 ohms mono bridged. I'm also aware speakers change in impendance over a frequency range, as you folk at crown obviously know. However, when PRODUCING an amplifier rating at 4 ohms, isn't it normal in this industry to have the amp be able to handle short dips into 3 ohms, with the understanding it's load will infact be doing so? If the amp is rated to handle 2 ohms stereo as well, when 4 speakers drop down to 6 ohms... you get 1.5 ohms accross the amp! I also know all the previous XLS series weren't rated to 4 ohms. Perhaps this amplifier should not be rated that low either? It simply can't take it, and rating it to be able to deliver these power ratings is almost misleading, as it will not deliver these power ratings for longer than an hour at most, and it won't even deliver all the way up to it's full rating at anything other than a PERFECT 4 ohms. That statement however, is debatable in itself, and a perfect 4 ohm load accross the board is such a rare application that I'm inclined to say it almost doesn't exist! Now I'm aware that we are discussing bass, however, isn't peak power determined using 20hz to 20khz? I'm aware of all the technical side (impendance not bieng perfectly 4 ohms, etc), but so is crown. I see it in all of your other amplifiers, which when rated to 4 ohms, can handle it for extended periods of time, with the power rated, and no popping. THE CE2000 is proof of this. I've been really proud to use crown in the past. I really like your gear, and I've commited fully to your company. I run only crown amplifiers, and have four of them now, and not a one has cost under $400. The CE2000 and the microtech ran around $600 each! I've invested a fair bit into the company, and upon further expansion will only go with crown amplifiers as well, both for ease of use and the fact I can say "I only use quality crown amplifiers" when competing with companys in my range that use behringer or even QSC. Your name bears weight. Therefore, I'm just a bit let down by this amp, and it tranishes Crowns image to me. I honestly feel like the numbers were fudged for marketing purposes, so as this amp could compete with other brands budget amps. The competitions amps are not only rated to 4 ohms but handle it without any of the issues I've run into! QSC Remix, Behringer EP... mackie amplifiers... Luckily, I just purchased one of these XLS 602's very recently, which I will be returning, and upgrading to a CE2000. I already have another CE2000, which delivers the bass I want from my amplifier to these bins perfectly. I'll be moving my one remaining XLS602 over to powering just my mids, at 4 ohms stereo, and if it for some reason experiences overheating here I'm going to be flabergasted. I surely will not be recommending this line of amplifiers to anyone however, because both your answer as the technician, and from the experiences of myself and others I have now read, this amp hoesntly deoesn't seem to live up to 4 ohm bridged rating it supposedly can handle. I'm sorry if any of this blame is placed directly on you, as I'm sure the cause of it is not a technicians fault but a marketing fault. So, I'm sorry if you personally take offense. I'm just quite let down. Jesse Nicola, djownspdx@yahoo.com
  10. CE2000 Pops in Bridge mode

    In a nutshell, he took what I had and pulled the nice out. A limiter will do the trick. If your program has alternating volumes from 15db or so, and you only want to deliver 110-115db or so (115 being peak), than just run a 3:1 compression ration. Keep in mind thats a crash course and overly simplified way to approach compression. As for the pop, it probably is just the result of DC power delivery at that high of a voltage to your speaker.
  11. CE2000 Pops in Bridge mode

    This is my guestimate... I am not a crown technician: Well your sub is 1200 watts RMS, probably 1600 continous operation, and 2400 peak... so when your amplifier clips, your sub is recieving 2000 watts (on it's way to peak) of a wav form it cannot reproduce. Essentially when you clip an amplifier at that much power, the speaker is forced to whatever transient it's given (+ or -) at a full 2000 watts and it stays there momentarily. Therefore it's no longer an AC, it's a DC current momentarily. Of course that would make a popping noise, just like turning appliances on inside of your signal chain. Now, if you're driving it at 660 watts (One stereo channel, 4 ohms), the force of the speaker being slammed out to it's full transient (+ or -) isn't nearly as powerful, and therefore wouldn't cause a pop. It's still bad for your speaker, however, it's a significantly more minor pop. Thats my guess. It seems like your amplifier and subs are running fine, they're just being driven too hard. You should perhaps consider the use of a limiter as a solution to avoiding such pops.
  12. I'm sure we'll get them all in due time. Your problem is essentialyl identical to mine. 2 ohms stereo = 4 ohms mono bridged essentially... as the two channels of the amp are in series in regards to their ohm rating, hence the wattage of the two channels at two ohms stereo equal that of 4 ohms mono bridged (2 x 2 ohm loads in series = 4). Makes sense since one channel provides for the positive side of the signal in mono, and other provides for the negative. Just a guestimate though based on what I've read. I'm wrong at least three times a day, and have only been wrong once today
  13. Allright. I run a small sound system, at least in my eyes. I have four 18" p.audio challenger series drivers, loaded into custom folded horn cabinets for my bass. They run around 650 watts RMS, 1200 peak each. Until about two weeks ago I only had two of the aforementioned drivers, loaded into some regular old reflex cabs that were probablly too small for these big drivers. Anywyas, I drove those all this summer off of a crown XLS 602b at 4 ohms mono bridged with no heat issues. I did however have a slight popping issue when driven at very high volumes, but I'll discuss that more in full below! Anyways, I loaded these drivers into the new large folded horn cabs, purchased yet another crown XLS 602b, and now have two drivers per amp, creating a 4 ohm load. Yeehaww. I of course first experimented with these in my basement (much to my nieghbors pleasure), and noticed some wierd things going on. FIRST of all, when I drove a singular cabinet off of the amp (8 ohms, mono bridged), I could drive the speakers all the way out to peak without any popping noises, and thats around 1200 watts or so on the XLS 602b at 8 ohms... so yeah thats peak with no popping. However, when I hooked the two cabinets up in parallel, one cabinet would begin to develope a "pop" when driven close to the amplifiers peak (1680 watts). This popping would alternate as to which cabinet "popped' based on how I switched my wiring. I at first assumed it was my cables, as the problem occured only in one certain cable. I was piggy backing bannana clips at the time (I run two cables out from the amp to my bins, instead of bin to bin paralleling), so I decided to swap the bannana clips positions, and it was not one of the cables, it was whatever clip was further out. Ok, I figured that maybe it was a contact issue. I took the two cables, put one into the bannana clip, soldered the two lines together immediatly after the clip (and did a good job ). Sure enough, the pop still developed, and it was certaintly not the cables. I even took my ohm meter and tested it, and saw equal resistance accross both cables from the banana clip. Since whomever answers this is going to make sure i'm not an idiot, i was using 12 guage cable, so it should be able to handle that much power. So, what would cause the popping? I am led to believe it's the amplifier, as I can drive the cabs out to *beep* near their peak at 8ohms, but when paralleled an issue developes. SECOND I ran two bassbins in parallel last night off of one XLS 602B for a small club gig, and ran into a whole new issue besides the popping. Now I had heating issues. After being run for three to four hours or so, without being run towards clipping (due to pops in the speaker), the amp started to overheat. The fault light would come on, and the speakers stopped making noise. Disconnect the speakers, still faulting, so it was something internal. Give it a few minutes, it would cool down and I could return to driving them. I encountered this issue a few times before I finalyl decided to just not deliver a very desirable level of bass, and sure enough everything was kosher as far as heat goes. The crowd wanted more bass though... Now I drove two of these same drivers before this at outdoor events all night (slightly under peak due to popping), with no heating issues, however oregon gets *beep*ing cold at night... so I doubt it's a cabinet related issue. This lead to my final conclusion and question: So, what it appears to me, without taking in the science of it all, is that the XLS 602B just can't deliver the power I'm trying to pull from it without overheating. It's rated to deliver 1680 watts at 4 ohms mono bridged, but when the speakers impendances dip (probably bringing it down to 3.3 ohms or what have you) the xls 602 just can't handle it probably, causing the popping noise and lots of heating issues. So, here's the good news. I have a CE2000 I use to power my tops, and I just purchased one of the XLS 602's and can still trade it in for another CE2000. The CE2000's power rating is more towards where I want it, and appears to have a vastly superior dampening factor. I can also take the XLS 602 B I am stuck with and power my tops with it. My tops are JBL TR225s, biamped cause the horns don't really suck, JBL just used a *beep*ty crossover network (Don't believe it? It uses the exact same horn compression driver as the MPRO series, 2412H) ...and the question... (besides if I'm 100% wrong in the above) Would two crown CE2000's at 4 ohms mono bridged perhaps better serve me than the CROWN Xls 602B? Thank you very much, and I really appreciate your time in reading my novel. I really hope a crown technician can help answer my question, as I really want to get the information straight from the horses mouth.