BobtheBuilder

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About BobtheBuilder

  1. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    Anyone?
  2. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    I just checked D31 with R375 still removed and I'm only getting a couple of millavolts DC on both sides of the diode. On TP 28 I have .5V DC and 50V AC? Is that normal?
  3. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    An update from further testing, C63 test shorted using the diode testing function on my DMM. C64 does not test open, I am not sure if it both capacitors are supposed to be that way. I did a test procedure from this post Remove R375; Scope or check the voltage on the zener, with reference to the bulk return reference (TP21. Note: this is not a chassis ground. BEWARE!) With the resistor removed, four different signals should show on D8: 0V : the load resistor is open : check above; If resistors and D8 are fine, then you may have an issue with IC16, the Fault circuit or the crowbar circuit; 16V: the load resistors are fine, downstream you may have a shorted bypass cap or modulator is disabled (possible short in amp detected); 2V : if steady, then the kickstart cap (C196) is open (apparently, not this case!); 2V : if charging and discharging : kickstart cap is functionning; check the bypass caps (such as C201, C196, etc); I have on D8 2V DC not changing at all. I put the negative lead on ground (I hope thats correct). I also have about 6v AC on c196
  4. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    I have just received a Crown CDi 1000 from a friend and I'm hoping to get it working for him. He was about to toss it but I said I'll just try, so there nothing to loose. Symptoms are, no power, nothing not even a light flicker and a burning smell. What I have done so far is checked the board for and obvious issues (bad cap, leaky cap, burning marks, etc.). All looked well, I then checked for shorts and found Q28 or Q31 to have been shorted, unfortunately I do not remember which one. I replaced both the with HGTG30N60A4D the correct part. I also checked C196 cap for an issues and it tested fine, but I have a few extra 105 Degree 220uf 50v lying around and replaced it anyway. So with all that done, I plugged the amp in and pushed the power button and... no power, nothing, no lights. But there is no more burning smell, so that's good. So my question is, how might I proceed? I'm really not sure where to check. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I would be very grateful. I would love to save this awesome amp from the landfill.
  5. CDI 1000 won't power on

    A lot of cdi and xti amps had issues with the kickstart cap (c192) I think that's the correct number, failing because of heat. You may be able to tell if there is leakage or damage by the capacitor. I have repaid 4 amps with that issue. That may be the issue or it could simply be something else. Please do not mess with it if it can be fixed under warranty and only troubleshoot it if you have the correct knowledge of electronics. There may be lethal voltages present or you could risk damaging it more. Hopes this helps.
  6. CTS 3000 not powering on

    Update for those who may have the same issue. I replaced T901 and the amplifier seems to function perfectly now. Played for 3 hours with no problem.
  7. CTS 3000 not powering on

    Update, I took out T901 from circuit and 1 2 3 4 5 6 test open and 7 8 test closed. Not sure what that means.
  8. CTS 3000 not powering on

    Where did you order the transformer? I have a CTs 600 that blew a fuse once and I measured around 60V on relay. No burn marks or anything on the board, but the AMP will not power up, no relay click, lights, nothing. I suspect T901 because on other side I get 60V and not 24V. .
  9. Just an update, I bypassed the input including the dac and both channels are fine with no issue except for a very small pop on channel 1 still. My guess is mabey a bypass cap connected to ground is out of spec.
  10. My crown amplifier that I would love to get going again is breaking my heart, I know she still lives. So when I turn the amp on everything is fine when i play music channel 1 is quieter and sounds slightly distorted in the tweeter. I have replaced all 220uf with correct voltage and a higher degree rating as well as correct polarity. I have also changed the 100uf bipolar caps. I have checked a few ground points and found 4 bad 220uf caps so I thought they all needed to go. Channel 1 also pops when the amp is powered off. What should I be checking because I believe it has something to do with the input because I have a fully working CDi 1000 and I swapped the face plates that contain the ribbon cable and dsp functions and the problem didn't change I have also but the amp in Y meaning combined inputs and I got matching sound on both channels. Please help! Update, decided to replace all non smd caps and now the pop and distortion are gone from channel 1 but it still continues to play lower then channel 2 still not sure what could be causing this issue. Both channels seem to be playing clean and with full frequency.