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  1. Last week
  2. XTI 2000 sub and highs

    you cannot dasychain subs and speakers unless you have passive crossovers (No in such use anymore). you need to put the subs on one channel and the PR12's on the other. Ideally you'd need to amps for this but not necessary. It is a MONO setup though so you'd also need to sum the CH1+CH2 signal.
  3. You'd have to call the customer service at crown
  4. Company Logo on Amps

    What do you mean? on the screen?
  5. if you get another sub you should position it right next to the first one, that would give you a +3db advantage. aditionally I wouldnt use two different amps, I would use the 4002 for each but the 2002 would do a good job too.
  6. Help with setup

    Use the information in this link to calculate the value to put in the limiters of the XTI, http://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=5229.0 If you run into trouble then let me know and I'll try to crunch those numbers for you. As for high pass filter for the main speakers it's not necessary. For the subs you need a high pass filter and a low pass filter sunce they are folded horns but not just. there is no logic in trying to make them produce sound that is below their frequency responce. All the best
  7. SA 2 parts needed

    Greeting, I have a basket case SA 2 that I'm rebuilding for personal home use. I would like to use the oem select transistors and IC's. I'm in need of a few select DS5617-2 outputs, temp sensing IC's, and a few 15v IC regulators. If you happen to have any please get in touch. Thanks in advance, DD
  8. Help with setup

    Thanks for the help ill try that this sunday. I use my laptop and i think it is system or sound architect?. I know this Cerwin-Vegas can pound, but every time i use them i dont think im getting everything from them.
  9. Help with setup

    OK, a bit of basics is needed... First... The gain knobs DO NOT lower or limit the maximum power of the amp, it just takes the gain down so given enough voltage on the input would still produce the maximum power on the output terminals. Second... You should always try to run your subs in mono. I think what rweston was trying to say is not to run them in bridge only. you need to sum the input of the two channels (right and left) going to the subs into one mono channel SUM(CH1+CH2) and then run the subs on this amp. What do you use to configure these amps? I'll get back to you about limiter configuration in a few hours
  10. Xti 4000 220v

    I'm using it reliably for the past 3 years on 220V, no problems what so ever. All the best
  11. Earlier
  12. Hi all, I have an itech 4000 that I am currently having an issue with. When I power it on the green power button light comes on and stays on as it should, but the blue power light flashes rapidly. When I check the line voltage monitor it is 94 volts. I checked the actual line voltage and it is 110 volts. Has anyone had this issue or any idea where to start. Maybe bad EMI or SMPS. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You, Frank..
  13. Crown xti4000

    Good night all i am currently working on this xti4000. Unit powers up normal, goes active when a signal is inputted the signal led illuminates but there is no output. When the gain pots are turned up no signal is shown on the leds. The unit stays powered up as normal. I swapped the front panel from a working unit and still the same thing. I also found the U12 was extremely hot. I changed the chip m33078 and it is good. Any one ever encountered this issue and can help with it. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  14. Xti 4000 220v

    It works on 220vac line wit with some power looses. If it droops under 210Vac, you'll confronting with some errors, showing short on display or even get mutted.
  15. How do I run my XTi4000 at 220v?
  16. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    Anyone?
  17. Itech 4000 problem

    So I still have the amp and it's still doing the same thing but now I see what's happening. If I set the dsp to monitor voltage is fluxuating ALL over the place, when it drops down below 100 the blue light starts blinking and the amp shuts down. I can get it working again if I leave the power button pushed in as I unplug the cord from the back of the amp and slowly plug it back in a few times. Anyone know if fixing this would be under $500? I don't know if I should sell it for parts or try to repair it. I really don't want to spend more than that to fix it. If anyone has experienced this before or knows what the likely fix would be I'd appreciate it. Thanks, Mike.
  18. Help with setup

    Depending what your speakers are rated at will determine how much power you can safely drive them, for myself I drive two 18in woofers rated at 500 watts each with a thousand Watts peak at 4 ohms using one Crown xti 4000. In bridge mode And have never had an issue, I make sure that my amps never clip, I hope this helps
  19. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    I just checked D31 with R375 still removed and I'm only getting a couple of millavolts DC on both sides of the diode. On TP 28 I have .5V DC and 50V AC? Is that normal?
  20. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    An update from further testing, C63 test shorted using the diode testing function on my DMM. C64 does not test open, I am not sure if it both capacitors are supposed to be that way. I did a test procedure from this post Remove R375; Scope or check the voltage on the zener, with reference to the bulk return reference (TP21. Note: this is not a chassis ground. BEWARE!) With the resistor removed, four different signals should show on D8: 0V : the load resistor is open : check above; If resistors and D8 are fine, then you may have an issue with IC16, the Fault circuit or the crowbar circuit; 16V: the load resistors are fine, downstream you may have a shorted bypass cap or modulator is disabled (possible short in amp detected); 2V : if steady, then the kickstart cap (C196) is open (apparently, not this case!); 2V : if charging and discharging : kickstart cap is functionning; check the bypass caps (such as C201, C196, etc); I have on D8 2V DC not changing at all. I put the negative lead on ground (I hope thats correct). I also have about 6v AC on c196
  21. Crown CDi 1000 No Power

    I have just received a Crown CDi 1000 from a friend and I'm hoping to get it working for him. He was about to toss it but I said I'll just try, so there nothing to loose. Symptoms are, no power, nothing not even a light flicker and a burning smell. What I have done so far is checked the board for and obvious issues (bad cap, leaky cap, burning marks, etc.). All looked well, I then checked for shorts and found Q28 or Q31 to have been shorted, unfortunately I do not remember which one. I replaced both the with HGTG30N60A4D the correct part. I also checked C196 cap for an issues and it tested fine, but I have a few extra 105 Degree 220uf 50v lying around and replaced it anyway. So with all that done, I plugged the amp in and pushed the power button and... no power, nothing, no lights. But there is no more burning smell, so that's good. So my question is, how might I proceed? I'm really not sure where to check. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I would be very grateful. I would love to save this awesome amp from the landfill.
  22. Hi, I already have an PRX418s and a xti2002 and I want to get another Prx418s. Now should I get an xti4002 and connect both subs to it and use the xti2002 for other or get another xti2002? What will be the best between these 2 amps?
  23. How do you add your company logo to the crown I-Tech series amplifiers?
  24. I have four original Itech amps in my inventory. I have the outputs attenuated (power output) using the on board processing to suit my applications. Do the ItechHD amps have the same flexibility? Mike M
  25. G'Day folks.. perplexing fault.. CTS 600, with no input nor load, HPF filter switch in 70 and 35Hz position = channel dead quiet. Passes signal happily, amplifies same faithfully. Move switch to FLAT and channel oscillates.. at U101 pin 12 is 10vac @ 26Hz..! Which then is fed to p/amp giving 92vac at spkr.. Visually, clip LED on, -26db LED on, -10DB LED flickering. Nothing palpably hot when amp running this for 5ish mins.. Power rails are clean +/- 15v, and channel 2 is symptom-free. Given the feedback nature it's hard to determine point of origin, although U104 comes to mind as being unstable and beginning to oscillate with the switch is moved.. Has anyone seen similar fault by chance ?? The circuitry around the switch looks so simple and unlikely to be causative, but working mainly on valve amps doesn't really help my plight.. Ideas ? Kind regards from Down Under.. David
  26. Help with setup

    Thanks for the reaponse. God is good i read your comment Sunday morning just before our big festival, so i ended up setting my subs in stereo rather than on bridge. i hear a lot of bass on my jbl though. I set my crossover at 90hz. And cut all the high frequency on the bass input channel and still a lot of bass on my jbls.
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