Crown XTI4000 no power problem
Posted 21 March 2014 - 02:20 AM
What basically happened, I thought I only had bad IGBT's and FAN device . After replacing IGBT's and FAN7380, the amplifier still would not power up.
The key to fix it, was to replace IGBT's , FAN7380 and TL494 all together. Now with all those new components it finally turns on.
Hopefully this thread can help someone out with similar problem
I will update it when I fully test the amplifier within couple of days.
Posted 24 March 2014 - 09:20 PM
Thank again Alain.
Having said that, I encountered another problem
I put both of the amps together after testing the one I was working on and realized over the weekend, the working unit developed a problem.
It works but has audible sound even with no input. It is kind of like motor boating sound. When connecting input source it is still there but with more volume it is barely hearable. This is the unit I used parts from to test the other amp but it now has all new IGBT’s, U14 and U18 IC’s .
I checked it to see if I might have overlooked something but everything seems OK. I will try to trace this odd sound but I am suspecting either one of the power supply caps or one of the op-amps perhaps. I am noticing service manual supplement has similar problem listed and recommends replacing couple of resistors. I will try that first.
Have you ever encountered similar issue ?
Posted 26 March 2014 - 03:08 PM
Is this noise audible in both channels? If so, then I would check the regulators or another common source. Try swapping display boards...
Can the noise be modulated by the level controls? How about the DSP? Is it possible that a preset may have too much gain or something? Try with DSP OFF preset.
Posted 26 March 2014 - 04:33 PM
The sound is in both channels and its independent from volume control. As the music is playing its frequency changes a bit - seems like the tone frequency slows down. Besides that, music playing sounds great without any distoritions or drop-outs whatsover.
I tried changing settings ( DSP off, different presets etc ) and it didnt do anything.
I will check the 82 ohm resistor you mentioned.
Posted 28 March 2014 - 09:50 AM
If you have a capacitor checker, it would be a good time to use it!
Hope this helps!
Posted 09 April 2014 - 05:40 PM
I checked radial capacitors with my ESR-Micro V4 tester and they all check out OK. ESR is low, capacitance varies ( due to testing in circuit I suppose ).
I did check tops of main filtering caps and they seem flat.
I am going to take the other , working amplifier apart and check/compare tests results of the caps.
If test results are close to each other, I will try to trace that tone or possibly replace couple of op-amps. I ordered 4 of them last time.
In the worst case I will still have working amplifier with motorboat tone that goes away after 15 minutes
Posted 10 April 2014 - 08:56 AM
Since the 'noise' disappears after a while, why not try some freeze spray on the components when the noise is observed?
If the noise should disappear, use a heat gun to reactivate the noise.
Verify the 3.3V circuit : It is derived from the 5V regulated supply.
I don't think it comes from the SMPS but from the secondary side.
Follow the signal :
Inject a 1KHz signal into one or both inputs.
Verify and scope the output waveform and determine if you can 'see' the motorboating signal with sine wave.
Verify then the input to the A/D converter and the output of the D/A converter.
If the noise is visible, try to use the EQ of the DSP and observe if it has some behavior on the noise.
Note : It is possible to have a bad A/D converter.
Posted 11 April 2014 - 03:45 PM
When I realized this one has audible tone I took it apart to check for anything I might have overlooked when I replaced those parts I used to test the other amp. After I did not find anything suspicious, I had it running with covers off with the same results.
I did notice that when I turn the amp on and have music playing louder ( more heat generated ) , the tone goes away sooner than when the amp is just idling or has music playing at low level.
I suspected weak/cold soldering joints and re-did many of them but there still maybe some as this is multilayer pcb.
I sent my scope for re-calibrating and will have it back on Monday or Tuesday and I will try to trace the tone.
I will check A/D converter specifically.
When I use EQ , the tone goes away for a split second but I guess it the result of muting the signal when changing DSP settings.
Posted 23 March 2016 - 03:00 PM
Posted 23 March 2016 - 03:21 PM
It may run a bit hot because of the output frequency (125KHz). But current drain? However, 30ma with 1K load = approx. 30V. Seems normal. Any comment?
Posted 23 March 2016 - 04:50 PM
Any idea ?
Posted 28 March 2016 - 08:04 AM
However, the TL494 is not the only component in that section : you also have the FAN7380 output buffer, some .1uF bypass caps, the regulator circuit, etc.