Macrotech I or I-tech
Posted 18 June 2012 - 10:06 AM
Posted 19 June 2012 - 10:22 AM
Does a fuse sorts out a light bulb in normal use and why?
I don't know what you mean by "splitting a conductor into two"?
Both the fuse and the lamp are conductors with positive heat coefficient characteristics (resistance goes up with the temperature), but they act differently once the temperature starts to go up, while the fuses temperature and resistance will go up very rapidly and just blow when its limit is reached, the bulbs resistance will go up gradually and emit more light as voltage on it and its temperature goes up (it acts as a current compressor) and if pushed much further, will blow as well. When the temperature is low, both devices have a very low resistance. Once things start to get hot, the lamp will change its resistance gradually and since the fuse is connected in parallel to it, and its resistance is still very low, all the current will run through it and it will render the bulb useless.
So although a fuse will protect your drivers, it will do it in a very unreliable manner, with no warning whatsoever, while the bulb will do it in a less sonically pleasing way if pushed beyond its limits but it will give you lots of notice in advance so you can back it up a bit and go back to safe levels, it will also allow for transients to pass with no destortion.
The Zener solution will give the best protection while keeping things sonically pleasing even if pushed hard, if you also want to know when you are pushing the driver beyond its limits then combine the bulb with the Zener and you have a winner. Even better then this, sell the MRX and get a proper set of SRX speakers, it is my strong impression that you need more.
Posted 19 June 2012 - 05:55 PM
So if this is the winner option, which combination of Zener and bulbs should I buy for my SRX725 here in Europe? And what configuration should I use? 24Volts 55/60Watts lamps are ok?
Thanks for everything.
Posted 15 July 2012 - 04:01 AM
Why use a 4000W ( and 9000$) per side amp on a 1600W seaker (the srx 728)?
I am using the same subs and power them by 2100W per side. they seem to kick just fine.
Posted 15 July 2012 - 06:38 AM
Don't know if you heard this before but first of all not all watts are created equal. My guess is you are using an XTI6000/2, you can read allot of comparisons in many forums about the sound difference after the upgrade to the i-Tech series amps.
Second although this speaker is 1600W Continuous, it also has another spec of 6400W peak which you can feed to the speaker and have much more power for transient peaks, this is particularly important for live music. So if you run these speakers on a 2100W amp, you have too much continuous power and at the same time too little peak power.