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About Tony9409

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  1. will do thanks
  2. I picked up a late serial number D-150a series II that has several damaged parts I want to replace. One such part I'm having trouble with is Q112 (C4116-7) which is listed as an NSD206 pnp transistor. I've been unable to locate one or a possible alternate the 2N6556. Does anyone have any suggestions ? A 2N4920 seems possible however the specs were lower. Any help would be appreciated. thanks Tony
  3. Thanks. I do have the input and output bias adjusted to spec ranges. The amp recently was recapped and sounds great. On a second D-150A SII in for repairs; I've recapped it and replaced blown output transistors on channel 1. I've measured and adjusted input/output bias to spec, however on turn on channel one IOC doesn't flash nor go on briefly post turn off like channel two does. Any suggestion where to check ? should I assume when the output blew it took out part of the IOC? Tony
  4. I have a D-150a series II and was wondering what the sequence the IOC lights follow....when you turn the unit on they both blink then turn off, when you turn the unit off they come on bright then gradually go out. Is this normal ? The amp sounds good and quiet... Are there other sequences that show a problem other than flashing if the amp is clipping at high volumes? thanks Tony
  5. Can an MDL style fuse be used in a D-150A series II in place of the MDX style for the 6.25A fuse ? thanks
  6. Found another fried resistor (200 ohm R149) on the Q42682-7 module. regards,
  7. measured 15.4 and -15.7 . all ICs are cool to the touch as well. I did locate a 22ohm resistor R08 that was burnt no other visual component damage elsewhere. regards,
  8. measuring across the output terminals with no input signal gave me the following : channel 1 reads 3.3mV DC while channel 2 reads -5.7mV DC regards,
  9. I just got this amp and ch1 has serious distortion at any volume. Ch 2 is just fine and punchy. The amp is in good condition visually. I swapped inputs and got same ch1 distortion... any ideas where to start. thanks I've done some checking since... the power voltages and filter caps seem ok from measuring and swapping with the working side. With the unit unplugged measuring the resistance across the leads of the driver TO-220 on the heatsink for the troubled side produced different results than the working side so I suspect they are at least part of the trouble...