wylde007

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About wylde007

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  1. Well, I already replaced the Vper chip. I'm thinking there are other components which have been compromised. They said they would go over it and make sure it all functions, including testing the amp under a dummy load. I gave them a "go ahead and fix it without calling me first" for anything under $200. For what I paid for the amp over twelve years ago, considering what I've heard about these amps and their service lives, and comparing that to what it would cost me to get the cheapest comparable-power appliance (Behringer EP4000) if I can get five or sixe (or more) years out of this one with a component fix, then I will consider it money well spent.
  2. On the advice of another sound guy in my AO I went by the local repair shop (not music store, Crown Authorized Warranty Service) and handed over my crippled baby. I explained what happened, what I had already done (tried replacing U2 and D2 on the side-board) and we talked about Crown and their systems and architecture and whatnot. He was super-helpful and seemed genuinely optimistic that they could isolate and solve the problem and get my amp up and runnng again. He said the CE4000 shares little in common with the 1000 and 2000 and is more like the K series, which sounded like a "good" thing in the way he presented it. It's going to cost me a few bucks and a few weeks, but if he can rebuild/repair it for a couple of bills and I get 5 or 6 more years out of it... I'll be pretty ecstatic.
  3. Well, at present I am the proud owner of a boat anchor...
  4. I have ordered a couple of parts from Mouser.com to try, since it seems that the regulator just shattered. I am going to try those two bits first and see if I at least get power. Unfortunately I am not the most electronically-inclined. I know how to muddle around a circuit board with a volt-meter, but I would have to D/L every spec sheet for every part on the dang thing. All of the rest of the parts appear undamaged - but the ones I mentioned above are definitely damaged. Thank you for the suggestion(s). I will keep them in mind if step 1 repairs fail to rectify.
  5. Following a conversation on forums.speakerplans.com I have come to discover that at least the U2 and D2 components appear completely wrecked on the SMPS board (see attached). Can anyone advise for the correct replacement part(s) for this board or, barring that, if there is a replacement SMPS board available? I would prefer to try and fix the circuit myself, because I am sure an entire board is going to be an expensive component... advice and/or suggestion is appreciated.
  6. Last weekend I ran a show at a new venue that I have never engineered before. I have never seen so many people. Anyhow, about midway through the first set the subs went out, then came back on... then went out with a **SPARK** along the front of the CE4000 chassis. I immediately hopped the rail and powered down the amp (which had settled into "fault" mode) and disconnected all input and output cables. During set-break I powered the amp back on and **SPARK** again! I had an opportunity to investigate further and could find no problem with any input or output... that is, until I checked the plug in the outlet. Somebody had jostled the plug and bent/broke the grounding iron off. Apparently there had been just enough intermittent connectivity or maybe a slight enough "gap" for the grounding iron that was causing current to drive in and out. I had to cut the end of the cable and wire a new plug to finish the night out. When I plugged it all back in (to a more secure location) everything worked as it should, even the power amp. Moral: protect your gear, no matter how "safe" you may think that it is. Thank God I don't (so far as I'm aware) have to replace that amp.
  7. On both amps you can jumper the barrier block (if it has a barrier block) and set both amps to "stereo" (see page 9 of the manual) run one input into amp "A" and then ΒΌ" from amp "A" to amp "B". All four inputs now see the exact same signal. You can still attenuate each channel if you want... why you would want to, I don't rightly know. You wouldn't want to bridge amp "B" AND send it the same signal as amp "A" if you were driving subs, as there is no crossover and amp "B" would still be getting the same signal... unless you have boxes with crossovers in them. If that's the case, on amp "B" simply remove the barrier block jumper wires, switch amp "B" to "Bridge" and leave everything else the same. Done.
  8. If you hook up any pair of 4ohm cabinets in any parallel arrangement you get a 2ohm nominal load. That's just how it works. Now, if you were to wire the cabinets one to the other in stereo and bridge the amp it would see an 8ohm load. I have done this to save one amplifier in a local club which has a blown input stage, but the output stages are fine. The club has two (2) 4ohm cabinets. I take the 1+ run it to cabinet "A" + (pos) and take 2+ and run it cabinet "B" - (neg). Then I connect cabinet "A" - (neg) directly to cabinet "B" + (pos). Viola. Series and 8ohms. Since you haven't told us anything about your speaker handling power, it is possible that you could wire them in parallel and use just one side of the amplifier OR plug each 4ohm cabinet into alternate sides and use the parallel-stereo mode of the amp where the input from one channel drives both outputs independently with the same signal and the other input is used to daisy-chain another amplifier, if you wish.
  9. 2ohm = bad. The cabinet impedance is a nominal number and, at certain frequencies, can drop well below the "minimum" impedance. When that happens and you have a 4ohm load it could be as low as 2.5 ohms. Connect two together and you could be nearing 1 ohm, which the amp in bridge sees as a short. Most amplifiers (especially modern solid-state amps) are designed to function at 4ohms bridged.
  10. Ain't it the truth?
  11. Some people would still gripe if you hung them with a new rope. That's the way it goes in Audioworldland.
  12. That sounds like a combination of bad power and a bad amp. I had a CE4000 that had a bad fault-protection circuit. In a club where it was only getting about 90v it cooked itself. I'd have the amp benched and/or sent in for service (if still under warranty) and I would certainly be wary of plugging it in ANYWHERE before testing the current and voltage of the outlet service.
  13. There is no marked benefit to running subwoofers in stereo. Subwoofer frequencies are generally considered omnidirectional, meaning they come from everywhere and nowhere at once. This is generally why subwoofers are typically housed in the middle of a venue tucked under the stage, rather than in a flanking arrangement like the mid- and high-range cabinets.
  14. I wasn't thinking that... but I am now!
  15. Mis-wired cable. Suggestion #3. Glad you got it sorted out. I love my CE1000 and wish Crown had not discontinued that series... maybe rereleased them in a 2R format. I think the 3R chassis is really what killed the CE, thought they kept the XLS which, in my opinion, is an inferior and less versatile (read: user-friendly) product.