trollwatcher

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  1. It sounds like you may have one of the speakers wired in reverse somewhere, either at the amp or speaker end !! That would sure make ALL the sound disappear real fast in Mono, LOL Otherwise one of the inputs to the amp may be inverted, or not plugged in fully which means you get a reversal and cancellation in mono! In fact, I would bet money on it! coz it's happened to me years ago! I do hope it is something simple like that, just check all your + / - everywhere and input cables and good luck
  2. I did some heavy (no pun intended) audiophile comparison stuff years ago with a few units, and found that one standard side of a 300A (ch1 or ch2 ) could put out just as much 'audio' power as a D150 in mono, even tho specs say otherwise. and noticed the 300As had better reserves, better solid low end bass and less distortion and 'speaker damaging' clipping than the D150s running in mono, (even though the D150 or D150A and D150A series 11 had 'more watts' in mono). I assume it was because of the DC300As huge beefy power supply. I had quite a few of these units to play with btw For overall hifi use and superb bottom end, the 300A does rule, BUT it's tranformer does mechanically hum a little bit, and only may become an issue during silent passages for longer than a few seconds,lol. Sound quality wise it does sound very much like Crown pro amps = macros, micros, CSLs, PLs and PBs etc. (yes I have those too for wOrK!) and especially so if you bridge the 300As ! They are truly a reference amp, (i.e. no 'colour' or inherent 'sound') and what you put in is what you'll get out, as long as your speakers are in good shape and identical in specs/performance, and your ears too! 8-I The D150 is a nice amp and very quiet mechanically, and if you're not trying to totally rock out with it and just need good 'reference sound' in a small package, it's great. I'm spoilt and run DC300As mono bridged and just place them in the far corners, and avoid music with long silent passages whenever I can, LOL. Anyway this is all IMVHO
  3. I did some users/abusers blah blah about it here at this forum, hope it's relevant: http://www.crownaudio.com/forums/index.php...&st=0#entry4467 I would put some capacitors or a filter setup on full range hifi speakers, as per the 300A user manual, to keep very low frequencies out, hence distortion running at 4 ohms low. And don't forget the FUSE thang inthe manual too!!
  4. I did some users/abusers blah blah about it here at this forum, hope it's relevant: http://www.crownaudio.com/forums/index.php...&st=0#entry4467
  5. Different POWER switch in the DC300AII, at last !! lol And still available as a spare part I would assume... if only Levitron would re release the original one, it would save me the headache of changing neons in the older rocker switches FWIW: I've had a few DC300A and DC300AII and had them on my 'MythDusters' test bench side by side, and gave them a good thrashing at all levels and impedences etc, and found no difference between them IMO ! Performance, waveform, distortion, and clipping thresholds etc etc were clones. "If" they are in top electronic shape and kept to original specs, they should all sound and be the same. IMvHO as usual... --------------------------------- btw: you can run the DC300A in mono at 4 ohms but not at high levels and two fans may/will be necessary, one directly at each transistor bank. BUT...get ready for this... I ran two DC300As in mono like this into dual loaded EV 18 inch subs cabinets (3.5 ohms box!) for ten plus years and no problems. (i.e. one amp per dual 18 box) All at high level live event concerts too, bands and doof doof, not just home use DISCLAiMER: I had correct value fuses in line in case of a disaster, and compressor limiters and subsonic filters set to not let things get out of hand. The amps got a bit warm on VERY hot days/daze and the fans did their job to keep the amps cool at all times. So...I'm not recommending anyone EVER does this, but thems MY user facts. DC300As mono at 8 or 16 ohm sound superb, and I don't believe the amps even get warm at these impendences! CSL1400s took over the dual 18 subs task a few years ago, and all my 300As are now in the music room awaiting their new orders lol They are still like new and up to full spec on my test bench. The Crown blab of a lifetime of good service to even the most discriminating or fussy user etc etc years ago, was not empty talk and sales waffle! And...I kept buying only Crown years later, so if they have some hidden marketing formula in their methods, well it sure keeps working for me But only coz their amps do! lol Now if we could somehow kindle up some forum activity on the Crown ES series electrostatic speakers, that would be superb ! There are tons of them still out there, I got two pairs and in mint condition, and would like to share some info with other users/abusers lol
  6. DGlass is on the money about the advantages Other fusspot stuff: I did some heavy (no pun intended) audiophile comparison stuff years ago with a few units, and found that one standard side of a 300A (ch1 or ch2 ) could put out just as much power as a D150 in mono, and noticed the 300As had better reserves, better solid low end bass and less distortion and 'speaker damaging' clipping than the D150s running in mono, (even though the D150 had 'more watts' in mono). I assume it was because of the DC300A huge beefy power supply. For overall hifi use and superb bottom end, the 300A does rule, BUT it's tranformer does mechanically hum a little bit, and only an issue during silent passages for longer than a few seconds,lol. Sound quality wise it does sound very much like Crown pro amps = macros, micros, CSLs, PLs and PBs etc. (yes I have those too for wOrK!) and especially so if you bridge the 300As ! They are truly a reference amp, (i.e. no 'colour' or inherent 'sound') and what you put in is what you'll get out, as long as your speakers are in good shape and identical in specs/performance, and your ears too! 8-I The D150 is a nice amp and very quiet mechanically, and if you're not trying to totally rock out with it and just need good 'reference sound' in a small package, it's great. I'm spoilt and run DC300As mono bridged and just place them in the far corners, and avoid music with long silent passages whenever I can, LOL. Anyway this is all IMVHO
  7. I don't know if this relates to your issue, but I have had lots of 300As and 300A series 11s over the years, and they will make that sound with IOCs fully lit up when you switch off the power, gain controls are still up and audio coming in from a pre amp etc. i.e. that's normal! If this is not the case, then yes it's time to get out the thinking cap and fixing gear... Good Luck