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About Chops

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  1. LOL! Yep, I'm well aware of the capacitors and their capacitated high voltages. From looking through the front "grill" of the amp, I see no reason to go prodding around behind the heatsinks. I guess when I get home tonight, I'll pop it open to check things out. Thanks again David!
  2. I believe I read somewhere on the forum that "Off" is basically the same as "Clip Limit".
  3. Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's a loose connection. For the first couple of minutes after turning the system on, the Signal LED works normally, but after the amp is on for a few minutes, it lights up and flickers randomly. HOWEVER, since I have had the system on today from 10am (it's now a little after 4pm), the Signal LED just went off about 10 minutes ago and is working normally again, which it has been doing since I first noticed the problem. Tell me, would it void the warranty if I were to open up the unit and make sure all the conections are secure up by the display board? I'm quite competent with electronics and curcuits, so it's not a new thing to me. But I just want to ask about the warranty being voided before I open the amp up. I mean, if it's as simple as a loose connection on or by that display board, there's really no point on shipping it off. Thanks in advance!
  4. I've been extremely happy with this amp over the last several months. Not a single glitch, completely silent operation, very deep, tight and powerfull bass. One thing I have noticed right from the very beginning was that the CH2 Ready LED was slightly dimmer than CH1's. I never thought much about it, so just left things be. However, after about a month owning and using this amp, I have noticed on power-up, durring which time it goes through it diagnostics check, lighting up all of the LEDs, the -20dB LED on CH2 stopped lighting up. But once up and running, all of the LEDs for both channels work just fine. Well tonight, I turn on the system as normal and everything does what it's been doing as always. I've had the system playing for the last 4 hours or so very lightly since I have company over. I walked out of the room for a few minutes, come back, and with no music playing, I notice that now the Signal LED on CH2 is permanantly lit. I turned both gains all the way down, turned the amp off for a minute, turned it back on, even disconnected the XLR cables in the back, and still that Signal LED stays lit. There's absolutely no hum or buzz coming through, and the amp still works and sounds just perfect. I am noticing that every few seconds or so, with or without music playing, cables connected or disconnected, gains all the way up or down, that same Signal LED flickers ever so slightly randomly. 1) Has anyone else noticed a similar problem with any of their XTi amps? 2) Since I have always noticed something a little fishy with the CH2 LEDs, should I expect to see even more problems show up? 3) Even though this seems to be a minor issue (so far), and the fact that it's rather annoying seeing that LED on for no reason (as it shouldn't be either), I am going to send this amp in for warranty work. How long does it usually take to get equipment back from repair? Thanks in advance!! BTW, here's a picture of the amp as of just a few minutes ago with the lit LED on CH2.
  5. "If you need quick answers, you are encouraged to first check the product documentation, and support materials on the Crown web site, and if you don't find your answer there..." If I found the info elsewhere on the site, do you honestly think I'd be asking here as well?! I don't need immediate answers, but holy cow, I don't want to wait 3 days either. Whatever... Heck, at least the Crown equipment is good and dependable.
  6. Does the fan in the CE-2000 run constantly or only when needed like the XTi? And why is it like pulling teeth around here to get answers?! It's ridiculas.
  7. Well, I got the D-75A in today. It's in amazingly great, mint shape for a 12 year old amp! There are ZERO marks on it! The only flaw was that the potentiometers somehow came loose and someone had spun the knobs so that the wires inside had become twisted and came in contact with eachother. So before doing anything else, I pulled the lid off, pulled the potentiometers out, untwisted them, seperated the wires, put them back in, snugged them down nice and tight and closed it back up. Before I decided to hook it up to my system, I first connected a small pair of RatShack 2-way bookshelf speakers and my old Sony DVD player up to it. With the gains all the way down, I switched it on. No thumps, snaps, nothing. I hit play on the player and started turning up the gains. Everything worked and sounded fine! I let it sit there and play for about an hour or so while I did a few other things around the house including running a pair of interconnects up to the front of the room and running the speaker cables up to the front, as well as going and getting dinner cooking. Multi-tasking baby!! LOL Anyway, I just want to say that this amp sounds great! Of course, once I get the proper XLR cables and a balanced signal going to it, I'm sure it will get even better. This amp even adds just a little more sparkle to the sound and has also opened up the soundstage a little more. Me likes! And what would this post be without at least one good picture. Here it is with the Rane crossover sitting up top. The Rane isn't connected yet but will be soon.
  8. I'm kind of doing the same thing you are, except instead of doing all 7 channels, I'm just bi-amping the main channels. Since I'm running super efficient horns, I don't want any kind of noise (hum, buzz or hiss) getting into the system, so I bought a Rane Balance Buddy BB22. The Rane is similar to the ART, but it seems to have better specs, especially where S/N ratio is concerned. However, both will bump up the unbalanced -10dBV of our receivers up to balanced +4dBV for pro audio gear. In fact, I plan on buying one of those ART units for my Crown XTi-1000 amp that powers my sub because I'm getting a little bit of buzz coming through on it. I figure the S/N ratio isn't all that important below 50Hz!
  9. Thanks johnnybon. Does anyone else have anything to say about other series amps or am I to assume that the XTi is the only one that does this?
  10. What's your reason to wanting to change over to the XTi? You're going from the top-of-the-line amplifiers to bottom-of-the-line amplifiers. Unless you're running out of power with the K2s, I'd keep the K2s. Now I'm definately NOT saying that the XTi amps are really bottom of the line. THEY'RE NOT! In fact, they are quite very nice amps! I have one in my system and it performs great. Anyway...
  11. BTW, this question is open to anyone who has the newer amps from Crown.
  12. The first "pro" amp I ever bought was a Carver Pro PM700. It had one of those flat 5" pancake fans in it that ran all the time. It stayed on slow, but once things heated up, naturally the fan sped up to a couple more speeds. Now I have an XTi-1000 amp and to my pleasant surprise, I noticed that the fan is off until it is needed. For home use, this is perfect being that it is completely silent 99% of the time. When the fan does kick on, it's only on for a few seconds and the music/movie is too loud to even hear it. My question... Are all of the newer Crown amps this way? If so, I might get one of the newer amps to power my Klipsch Cornwall bass bins. I was thinking of maybe the XLS-202s. Thanks, Charles
  13. After doing some more research on the Altec forum and asking a few questions, I have found a simple solution. Since I will be actively crossing the 902's over at 800Hz @ -24dB per/oct, I can insert a 50uF cap in series with the driver to rolloff around 400Hz @ -6dB per/oct. This will in turn absorb the thump from the amp. A cheap and simple fix! This is exactly what Juan Acevedo mentioned above. Thanks again for everything, Charles