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  1. could have sworne thats what i read? ohwell, my bad...
  2. some other forums i belong too tend to come up with one forum topic where everyone shows off what they have settup. it's to give new comers some ideas for settup styles and give you a chance to show off you'r prize system. saddly though, i can't find the cable to my digital camera so mine will be delayed for while...
  3. to tell you the truth, blue-ice amps don't put out as much as they say they do. it's sorta like Prymaid and PylePro with their amps... sure, it SAYS 5,000watt output.. but really you'r only going to see a shared 800-1,200watt MAX rms output out of them. for the same price i would go with *Sorry Crown* but a QSC RMX 1450 at most for a decent sound. or for a boost in quality go for a Xs500 or Xs700 from Crown. either way should be a great upgrade from the amp you'r using now.
  4. does anyone anyone use a mac with their HiQNET programing? i'm looking to change over to a MacBook instead of a laptop. Apply is comming out with the new Mac OSX 10.5 which enables any Mac computer to install and run windows as the main OS on the computer. i'm just wondering has anyone tried using HiQNET on a Mac yet?
  5. though they may be having problems, it has come to my attention that sometimes it's not always the direct company in site that is the problem. HiQNET is the one supplieing the program are they not? i mean if they are the supplier for all the other programs compatible with the DSP, shouldn't HiQNET be the one held responsible? Crown can't necessarelly say when the program is going to be ready if they are not the ones designing it. company to company communication normally lacks detail as too when things are going to be ready and whats holding things up *confidentional stuff i'm sure*. i know you were hoping for this to come around as a hop through the woods and i'm there with you. there should be no point to introducing a product without the other necessary piece for it's operation. BUT things like this does happens from time to time.
  6. As a custom audio designer, i say this. NEVER... EVER go by the peak power rating of a speaker. ALWAYS by RMS to 40-50% above RMS, anymore and you risk thermal damage to the speakers and in some rare cases short circuit the amplifier from having a crossed circuit after the speaker's VC *voice coil* has blown. also remember, any and all speaker drivers can blow WAY before they reach RMS aswell when not crossed or highpassed right. all speakers have something that is called Xmax. this is the linear output area that a speaker has to move and recreate sound without any distortion or damage to the VC. going over the Xmax a little is ok, too much can cause a big dent in you'r savings... my suggestion, find out exactly what the model of JBL drivers those are and gather up the T/S specs on the drivers *woofers*. if you have the time you can download and toy around with WinISD Pro. it's a free program used to model and help design speaker cabenits. you can use it to design the most basic speaker cabenits to some of the more difficult cabenits like fine tuned 4th order bandpasses, 6th order bandpasses and Iso-Barik *Compound* speaker cabenits. this program will show you what the speaker should be capable of with the desired speaker cabenit measures at what ever power and will show you just how much power you should throw at it without going past Xmax. WinISD Pro is found here - Linear Team *for some points with the program that are asked frequently at www.speakerplans.com/forums* All model results are specified under half space readings, meaning, any and all models shown to you is what you should get out of you'r design at 1 meter distance with the speaker cabinet playing outside sitting on the ground without any other walls around it. you can specify what wattage of power to the box you will be throwing and it will give you a full modeled SPL/RTA read out. if you want to have the speaker sitting near a wall during you'r play and want to know what you'r getting out of that *which is known as 4th space*. just add a 12db EQ gain at 60hz with a Q of .25-.5. this models what happens when natural amplification is in effect. for a corner *8th space* add 24db at the same point and Q instead of 12. if in a corner on the floor with a ceiling no higher then 12 foot, add in 32db gain in the same point and Q. this will show you an "about" effect of what happens to bass output when the spacing is changed, generally a massive effect too 25hz-120/150hz. -hope i've supplied enough help for you, cheers!- NeverWinter
  7. possibly a short circuit somewhere on the main board. sometimes caused from over heating or power surg. the 5002 has been known to over heat and melt it's own power mains, blowing everything inside... as seen here. but this doesn't mean that this is the problem. could be a matter of which i mentioned above, could also be a dust clutter on a circuit or maybe an actual factor faulty, bad solder point?
  8. good good atleast you know that thus far. just take in consideration and use this as an example. take the 8ohm load rating and cut it in half, basicly thats an "About" wattage for 16ohm. then take that and the 8ohm rating, add them togethere and dived by two. this should give you an about watage for 12ohm, in this case about 487watt at 12ohm for an average guess with the XTi4000.
  9. Switch mode power supply *switching amplifier* Class I. thats what i'm judging considering it's circuitry.
  10. i'm wondering if anyone is using HiQNET on a Mac rig? i think i'd like to change over to a MacBook Pro and use the bootcamp option to have windows instead of Mac OSX. anyone at all?
  11. maybe you have a second version of the amp? maybe you'r just one of the lucky "Beta" customers? i'm not intirely sure, i can't find a single thing on the i-Techs about this...
  12. also "B" stock normaly is when the product is damaged in the wharehouse or a product used for display is damaged. it's not a BIG thing, it's more of little dents, paint scratches and such. but still paying WAY TOO MUCH... DJdeals.com has the I-T8000 for $3,950 thats where i get all of mine.
  13. just a word of advice, no amplifier or load is exactly 2/4/8/16 ohm. when you have a 4ohm load settup, the amp could really be seeing 3.2ohm or 4.8ohm. as long as it's within the perimiter of the amps ratings and sugjested ohm loads, then it doesn't matter what ohm rate it is, it will run just fine. you just wont have an accurate power rating like what any amplifier provides for specific ohm loads. EXAMPLE: a Subwoofer horn known as the Punisher, when using the 4ohm version of the Ciare 12.00SW subwoofer, the ohm load isn't 4ohm, it's more like 6ohm. with the 8ohm version it's more like 12ohm. it's not because of the amplifier, it's because the resistance of the speaker is not always exactly what it's rated. the 4ohm could be it's rating for it's LOWEST resistance when it could be going as high as 8 or 10ohm. all depends on the speaker... as for 12ohm rating, the XTi4000 should do the trick, should give you atleast a good 350-400watt that way you have a tad bit of head room to work with.
  14. I have here with me 2x I-T4000s and 2x I-T8000s and i need to view all 4 of them on my laptop. i'm wondering, do i have to have one of the IQ network boards? or can i just use an ethernet hub or router?
  15. circuit? center? no clue i have the same thing happing but i don't pay much attention to it...