schnakesound

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About schnakesound

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  • Birthday 04/24/1961

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  1. Hi, I had this happening with one of my I-Tech 8000 the week before Memorial Day weekend. I called Crown and took the amp to the Factory in Elkhart, IN the Tuesday after Memorial Day. They couldn't recreate the problem with a dummy load on the amp, however I asked them to do it without a load it showed and power spike jumping the rails and shorting the fan so that it ran a full speed...kinda sounds like a 757 taking off. Anyway they fixed mine at no cost and it has worked well for the last 6 shows that we have done. It might be something to have them look into. Bill
  2. Hi, I do this in each of my monitor amp racks. Each rack has either 4 x XTi 4000 or 4 x XTi 2000. I have the digi AnywhereUSB 5 unites which also have a network connection. The AnywhereUSB is not rack-mountable without buying an extra kit. Here is what I did. Take a 1" wide 9" long piece of aluminum that I purchased at the hardware store for a couple of dollars, drill an 1/8" hole in about 1/2" from each end, attach it to the AnywhereUSB using a zip tie at each end of the AnywhereUSB, making sure to center the AnywhereUSB on the piece of aluminum. Tighten the zip ties making sure the zip ties tighten at the bottom of the AnywhereUSB. Take a number 8 screw about 1/2" long (depending on how your case is made) and mount the AnywhereUSB and aluminum in your case wherever it will fit and makes sense to you. This process will work the same with any USB hub that you want to use. I use the AnywhereUSB because of the network connection. That way I can see my XTi amps and my I-tech amps all at one time in System Architect. Hope this helps. bill
  3. Hi, About two years ago I bought an installed a Anywhere USB from Digi. It does USB over IP. I use it with an Apple wireless router. I used this configuration with my amps and a Yamaha LS9-16 last week to run a show wirelessly and it worked great. You can buy the Anywhere USB on eBay. Good Luck.
  4. Hi, I am using the AnywhereUSB 5 port to do USB over ip. Using a standard Ethernet cable you run up to 300' if you have to. I put one of these in each of my monitor racks and attached the cable to my 200' snake. It works like a charm and the guys at Digi are great about helping set up your network if you have questions. bill
  5. I will put the patches together and email them to you in the next couple of days. bill
  6. Hi, You could use either of the following XTi amp and achieve what you want to do. XTi 4000 in stereo mode 4 ohms per side 1200 watts per side or 2 XTi 1000s in bridge mono mode on on each sub. This would give you 1000 watts to each sub. If it were me I would go with the XTi 4000 so I had 20% head room. The cost difference between one XTi 4000 and two XTi 1000 amps should be minimal and you might be able to get the XTi 4000 for a little less. You do not need the dbx. If you send me your email I will put together the patch for you and all you will have to do is load the patches using either Band Manager or System Architect. Let me know which option you want to do and I can help you with the rest. Bill
  7. Please provide the exact model number of JRX that you are using on your mid/highs and I will see if I can figure this out for you. Thanks bill
  8. The XTi Series does not have an hour meter. The I-Tech series does. bill
  9. Hi, Here is the contact for Crown in the UK: Sound Technology Letchworth Point Dunhams Lane Letchworth Garden City Hertfordshire SG6 1ND Ph: +44 (0) 1462 480000 http://www.soundtech.co.uk Good Luck. bill
  10. I feel you pain on this one. I use to have a similar problem when I was doing dj shows. We use to do Plies and Twista on a regular basis. I never had a problem with their show, however the opening and closing dj were a different matter. I have know the closing dj for about 10 years and could not get it through his head that we set his level to my board and then I control the up and down from my board. I still have two jobs a year with him and he still tries to turn up his volume until it distorts my board. I finally added an additional compressor to my system for his channels. I set it to hard limit, now no mater what he does at his end he can't tear up speakers or my amps. Sorry to hear that you have to put up with this type of crap. Good luck. Bill
  11. Well here is what it looks like: SP5G - 800 8 ohm * 2 = 1600 4 ohm minimum PV118 - 400 8 ohm * 2 = 800 4 ohm minimum It looks to me like you have three options: Option 1 XTI 4000 side 1 for Sub, side 2 for Top This amp produces 1200 watts per side into a 4 ohm load. .75% of the required power for the SP5G speakers 1.5% of the required power for the PV118 speakers It looks on the surface like you don't have enough power for your tops and technically you don't, however that being said it will work fine for the size of venue and number of people that you are going to be providing sound for. You will have to tune/match you mixer output level to you amp input level. Option 2 XTI 6000 side 1 for Sub, side 2 for Top This amp produces 2100 watts per side into a 4 ohm load. 1.3% of the required power for the SP5G speakers 2.6% of the required power for the PV118 speakers This amp gives you plenty of power for the starting and if you want to update your speakers at a later date you have room to grow. Option 3 XTi 1000 bridge mono on sub and XTi 2000 Bridge mono on the top 1.25% of the required power for the SP5G speakers - 2000 watts at 4ohm bridge 1.25% of the required power for the PV118 speakers - 1000 watts at 4ohm bridge I personally like the 3rd option. Total cost should be in the $1,100 range. Additionally, you have the perfect amount of power to each set of speakers. Good Luck. bill
  12. The XTi cross-over is more compatible to the ones found in the DriveRack 260. I used the DriveRack 260 for 2.5 years with the last year being used to front end my XTi amps. I finally got the amps set the way that I wanted to get them set and got rid of the DriveRack 260 all together. I don't think that you will need anything except the cross-overs in the XTi. Merry Christmas. bill
  13. Timmy this is what I would do. Run the 15" JBLs at a 2 ohm load. You will get the best power for your low-end that way. This still leaves the subs under-powered by a minimum of 400 watts. Run your tops at 4 ohms, like you said. I would use the bi-pass gain to lower the output of the tops if it was me. As soon as I could afford to do it I would get an additional XTi 1000 and dedicate it to the top cabinets. I would then take the XTi 2000 that you have and use both sides for subs. This would be a good match for a system. bill
  14. Hi sorry to but in on your conversation, but your basic primes of high ohm is better is flawed: 'I am also interested in running a 16 ohm load on the other channel, (Two 8 ohm JBL speakers) although this can easily be made a 4 ohm load. 16 ohms is not specifically stated, but conventional wisdom is that higher impedance is always fine. Is this true here? These speakers are FAR more efficient than the low speakers, hence why not use 16 ohms?' The XTi with much like all Crown amps in the Itech, Itech-HD, MacroTech and XTi series is most efficient and runs at its best when running a 4 ohm load. I do have one amp, an Itech 8000 that I continually run at a 2 ohm load. It runs two EAW SB850 subs per side, which is a nominal impedance of 4 ohms, it run that way outside 60 days a year and inside another 90 or so. I will, occasionally run one of my XTi monitor amps down to 2 ohms on one side and 4 ohms on the other if an artist requests more than one monitor for the mix. I use dual 12 inch monitors with a 8 ohm horn. The low end of each monitor is 4 ohms so two together would be 2 ohm load. I have never had a problem with this setup. If my math is right here is the break down: XTi 2000 8 ohm load on a channel yields 475 watts of power 4 ohm load on a channel yields 800 watts of power 2 ohm load on a channel yields 1000 watts of power A 16 ohm load should yield about 245 watts of per on a channel. I would think that you would do much better running a 4 ohm load and dialing back the power if you don't need the full 800 watts of the channel. Bill
  15. Sorry to hear about the amp. If you are comfortable doing this I would remove the top of the amp cover. After the cover is removed us a hair blower on low to dry the circuit board. Let it set for a day. Plug amp in with the power off. Turn the amp on and hopefully it will work. If no sparks, hook it up with the volume down and then slowly apply signal and listen to see if you hear anything. Good Luck. bill