vsop

Members
  • Content count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About vsop

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  1. What I would do is run it in a bia-amp config. get yourself a CE1000 for the highs. Now for the low end you have 2 choices. If you want to get the max out of the speakers then buy 2 CE4000's and run them in bridged 4 ohm to each speakers LF inputs. This will put you right on the money. Otherwise a single CE4000 will give you 1200watts RMS per channel. Now if you run just a single amp you have to watch the clipping and be sure to set a subharmonic filter, because with only 1200watts you can easly try to overdrive the amp and send unaudiable distortion to the speakers. If you go with the 2 4000's then just be sure to set your compressor/limiters and you will be ready to go, with more then enough juice to push those woofers. Now there are other amp options but this really is you best bang for the buck with the price of the CE's right now. You can save a few dollars by going with an XLS amp for the highs, but I like the CE series better 3036[/snapback] 3050[/snapback] These are the 2 best options.. You can run 2 CE4000's each in 4 ohm mono, one to each cab in passive mode. This will power both the highs and the lows. This will make your system rock. Now the second option is a little more expensive but will give you a little more clarity and abit more tuning ability. By running a ce1000 in 2 channel stereo 8ohms you can power each stacks HF giving them plenty of power (the HF is rated 75w RMS, 150 Program & 300 max, so the ce1000 is perfect) you then do liek the above and run each CE4000 in bridged 4ohm and this time only power the LF on each cab. This will now allow you to run the highs and the lows seperatly for better control over the sound, you really would need a 2 way crossover and to really make the unit shine a DBX Rackdrive PA (which will do EQ, compressor/Limiting, Crossover, Delay, ETC) would be a perfect fit. And the Rackdrive already has all the setting for this setup, so you would just plug in the equipment and through the prompts select the JBL's you have, then select BI Amped and choose the amps, and it will already have the required settings for you. It even goes as far as telling you where to set the gains on the crown amps. And as a bonus it has a nice feedback eliminator as well..
  2. Unless the Cobranet traffic is Broadcast traffic you would not require a router to seperate the wireless device from the network. An reall AP should only be sending unicast packets out over the WIFI interface if it has the mac address of the destination in its table. APs work like a switch/bridge at layer 2 when it comes to fowarding traffic over the wireless network. (and if you have a switched network, which everyone should have if they are pushing audio realtime over a network, you would not have to worry since the switch will not send the traffic over the interface port that the wifi ap is connected to. As far as broadcast traffic goes, yes you would need a layer 3 device to seperate that (unless you had an access list to limit traffic you don't want to go over the link) I'm not sure how cobranet operates, but I figure it uses either unicast or multicast to send to multiple devices. Also an option for those that are looking to do remote acces from a handheld, you can rdp (remote desktop) into the computer that has the software loaded from a PDA to have access to full features with out having to load it onto a PDA or laptop. Just my 2 cents
  3. What I would do is run it in a bia-amp config. get yourself a CE1000 for the highs. Now for the low end you have 2 choices. If you want to get the max out of the speakers then buy 2 CE4000's and run them in bridged 4 ohm to each speakers LF inputs. This will put you right on the money. Otherwise a single CE4000 will give you 1200watts RMS per channel. Now if you run just a single amp you have to watch the clipping and be sure to set a subharmonic filter, because with only 1200watts you can easly try to overdrive the amp and send unaudiable distortion to the speakers. If you go with the 2 4000's then just be sure to set your compressor/limiters and you will be ready to go, with more then enough juice to push those woofers. Now there are other amp options but this really is you best bang for the buck with the price of the CE's right now. You can save a few dollars by going with an XLS amp for the highs, but I like the CE series better
  4. Hey yea, Get an I-Tech 4000, they are only around $5000.00 Right now 2 CE4000's are about $1800.00 I just cannot rationalize the expenditure for the amps. I can do a lot with $3200.00 If I could afford it, I would love to have I-Tech's! Due to the cost of the I-Tech's and to pay for them via a working band or a DJ, that's a lot of gigs! Maybe with time, they will come down in price where the working (Weekend Warrior) gigger can afford it. The I-tech's were really not designed for US, but if you have the money, go for it! Later, Bud 3030[/snapback] Opps.. I have not checked the price of the CE4000's in a while.. Had mine for a bit now.. I was still thinking that they were close to $2k each.. But at $900 each new, the CE4000 is a steal. I might have to pickup another one and put my QSC RMX2450 to use as a booth or use it to power the highs in a tri-amp setup with the CE's so low in price now.
  5. Why not just get an I-tech amp in place of the 2 ce4000's. You can run one unit in 8 ohm mono and blow the doors off the 2 CE4000's An I-Tech4000 would do the job and an I-Tech6000 would really give you some power to thump with