Crown since 1974

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About Crown since 1974

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  1. Old thread, I know. But I need two such end-caps. Having the part number is not help and Crown says parts for the Studio Reference are long gone. I don't have one but if someone had a spare, I'd volunteer to have some fabricated. I don't even know if they're cast pot-metal or plastic since I've never seen one. Any help or loan of a cap would be appreciated. Thanks
  2. Actually, originally the faceplate was an option.
  3. Bumpity bump.
  4. Thought I'd bump this thread as I've yet to attempt a repair. Still wondering if someone can ID the suspect offending component from the photo. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  5. Thanks! What I think is C4 (indicated by red arrow at lower left in photo below) is marked 6.8uf at 50v. The schematic in the PS200 manual shows C4 as 10uf at 50V. I can't see the mark on the board for the component number but maybe it's underneath the cap? The part listing on-line at Crown for the PS400 shows C4 as part number C3728-0 that supersedes C5050-7. It gives no indication of value for C5050-7. Could my 6.8uf have been superseded by a 10uf? Am I looking at the right cap?? (see red arrow at bottom left of photo)? Is the part for the PS400 the same as the PS200? What difference will 6.8 versus 10.0uf make?? Thanks for helping someone who can barely tell a resistor from a capacitor! (But I have replaced caps in a DVD player with success.)
  6. One of my PS-200s has developed a problem with the clear-plastic cube "relay" on the circuit board above the power switch, visible with the top cover of the amp removed. The box is marked "Japan" with a four-digit number printed on it and has four contacts to the circuit board. On turn-on it will sometimes buzz for several seconds as if the relay contacts are dirty or aren't getting enough voltage to close. Eventually, usually, it will "lock" in the closed-circuit mode and all is well. When it buzzes, all the four red LEDs on the faceplate light up and flicker. I can see the "relay" fork attempting to close the contacts but they won't stay closed. What is this part? I'm guessing part of the turn-on delay? Is this a replaceable part that's still available from Crown? (Couldn't find a part listed on the circuit diagram.) Symptomatic of some other ailment? Is there a way to open the relay's box to clean it or will it shoot small parts all over the room? If I drill a small hole in it and either blow it out or shoot it with DeOxit is it likely to cause any problem (other than if I drill into the circuit, of course!)? Thanks for any help. First problem I've ever had with a PS-series amp out my five!
  7. I've used the 4412A with D150, D150A-II, DC300A-II, PS200, and PS400. The more power the better. If you're using them at lower levels as near-fields, the D75 will work fine. I have one of those, too, but the improvement in sound with the more powerful amps is obvious, especially when the sound level increases. JBL rates the power-handling capacity of the 4412 at 150 watts. That gives the PS400 a little bit of headroom and leaves all the others a bit short if you're demanding a lot of SPL from your monitors. None of the amps above have fans so noise is not an issue. All are getting some age on them, except the maybe the D75A since it's still available new but not in the price range you're quoting, but mine are still incredibly reliable with one in constant service for over 35 years with only one trip back to Crown and that was over twenty-years ago.
  8. You are correct. They are attenuators, just like those on the D-series amps of that day.
  9. I don't know any reason you can't simply split the SL2 output with Y-connectors and run each pair to a separate amp. I'm doing it with two PS-400s out of a single pre-amp. Seems to work fine, even when running both at the same time.
  10. David, Thanks for the detailed reply, as always. I've been running the JBL 4345 system with a DC300A-II on the 18" LFs, and a D150A-II for the three-driver HF section. It's working great. I can't really imagine what more power would do since the 18" 2245s are a lot more efficient than I ever thought they would be. I have all input attenuators at half (12 o'clock) and I still can't play the pre-amp much past half volume without my kids asking if I'm deaf. The old D-series amps continue to be impressive, not matter what I ask them to do. It's a pretty robust set of high-frequency drivers but they don't seem to need any more power than the D150 can deliver. It seems to be a good match. I appreciate your taking the time to answer.
  11. There is a theory postulated on the JBL forum site concerning advantages of bi-amping using two identical amps but with one amp dedicated to each speaker-side rather than using one to feed high-frequency (HF) R&L (both sides) and the other the low-frequency (LF) R&L (both sides). The theory proposed is that an amp (let's say a PS-400 or DC300A-II) will provide better power to the LF-side of one speaker bank if one channel fed the LF and the other amp channel fed the HF-section of that same speaker, since the power supply would only be heavily taxed on the LF channel. In "conventional" mode where an amp might feed the left-side LF speakers out of one channel and the right-side LF speakers from the other channel, the demand of having both channels produce the low frequencies could put much more demand on that whole amp compared to it having a lighter load with the HF in one channel and the LF in the other. Of course this presupposes you're bi-amping with identical amps. To put if more clearly (maybe ), I'm thinking of using a Crown PS-400 or DC300A-II to power the 18" woofer of a JBL 4345 system and a PS-200 or D150A-II for the upper three drivers using charge-coupled crossovers for the HF set and splitting the signal to the amps by way of an Ashly XR1001 crossover. I have the option of using two PS-400s, one for each speaker bank. The theory proposed would suggest that my LF performance would be improved if I used a separate amp for each channel versus channel A of both for left and channel B for right, as I'd normally do. If I used two identical PS-400s in either configuration, would there be any expectation that one way of dividing the amp output would work better than the other? Should I expect an improvement in running double 400's this way over the 400/200 or 300/250 arrangement? FWIW: JBL quotes a 95dB SPL for the LF and 98dB for the HF section and specs a max of 200 watts for the LF and 100 watts for the HF, doubled for 3dB extra headroom I'm sure I've worded this in the most confusing way possible, but I hope it's clear enough to provoke a clearer answer. Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.
  12. I just thought I'd give this thread a bump after over a year of no replies. I'm still looking for rack handles for one PS-400. Black would be great but I can paint them. No big deal, I just have one with them and one without. They apparently became an option later in production and now Crown doesn't seem to have any more in stock. I'm happy to swap my perfect rack-mount ears in black for a pair of handles. They have been mounted in a studio environment but no significant rash from the experience and no road use. Thanks
  13. As the subject line says, I have a PS-400 that has worked perfectly for years. (Two PS-400s, actually.) I recently noticed the older one no longer lights both red IOC LEDs on startup. The right side is out. Some time later I noticed the "signal presence" green LED on the opposite channel is no longer working. The amp sounds perfectly fine. Does anyone have a suggestion what to look for in a user repair? Are LEDs known to just fail? Is it more likely to be a solder joint? Could this indicate some other sort of circuitry failure that might be more serious? I realize I'm asking for opinions, not diagnosis, since you can't see my amp. I have downloaded the repair manual and I suppose I should be able to test the LEDs with a diode check on a VOM, but I was just asking to see if anyone has had similar experiences with these amps before I attempt to take this one apart. I have two D150A-IIs, and a DC300A-II all older than the PS-400 and in constant use. I also have two PS-200s, and the two PS-400s. This one PS-400 is the only amp that has an LED problem. Thanks for any help or suggestions. I'd hate to have to send it in for repair if it's a simple fix I could maybe perform myself, especially since the amp seems to be working fine otherwise.
  14. So then what's my Crown FM-3? Chopped liver?
  15. You won't usually find a good DC300A-II for much less than $200, and one with good cosmetics will fetch sometimes twice that, or more. I have an original no-front-panel D150 I bought (as the name implies) new in 1974. It's still working fine. Went back to Crown once over twenty years ago for a hum in one channel. I also have two D150A-II's, one DC300A-II, two PS-200, and two PS-400s. I'd highly recommend you also consider the PS-series as they are essentially updated D-series amps, are sometimes easier to find in good shape, and often don't cost as much as comparable D-series. Personally, I'm convinced the PS-series are superior to the D's in several ways. I particularly like the front-panel headphone monitor jacks, and the turn-on delay. They've proven to be just as tough as the D's in daily use. If I wasn't so sentimentally attached to my D's I'd let 'em all go and switch completely to the PS-series. Oh yeah, I like the handles, too! I believe the specs show them to be a bit more powerful even if the circuitry seems identical. Must be different standards. They're all fine amps and I'm happy to know that Crown still supports them. Thanks!