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About chris226

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  1. DO NOT USE THE "BRIDGED OUTPUT" CONNECTION UNLESS THE AMP IS IN BRIDGE-MONO MODE! I suggest you just go stereo and place (1) 4-ohm coil (load) on each channel. Based on the info given, that is your best option. Any small two channel mixer can be used to force mono (like a Behringer XENYX 502): Plug your DAC's left output into one mixer channel, and itsright output into another, make sure the "pan" (balance) knobs are centered and both signals will be combined at the mixers LR outputs. It doesn't mater which mixer output you use, (L, R, or both) they will have the same summed/combined signal.
  2. I'm actually going to use it for stage monitors. It's going to be at a local bar that typically has an in-house operator set-up, then he leaves it with the band. They have a different band every night. Many bands (and operators) in my town are very neglectful when it comes to operating PA system's that they don't own!
  3. I'm getting ready to install a couple of the new XLS units for live use. I usually use a well set compressor/limiter (Ratio: Infinity:1, Attack: 5 ms, Release: 1s) , to protect speakers. It is quite common for my clients' operators to (attempt) run a system 10-20 dB over what the amps (and speakers) are designed for, to try and get it "just a little louder". The compressor/limiter I typically use provides 30+ dB of reduction, so even though things may start to sound squashed, the system is protected. 1. Is the built in Peakx limiter suitable to handle this kind of abuse, or should I continue to use an outboard limiter? 2. What is the relationship between between the clip LED and the Peakx limiter? 3. Can you provide specs. for the Peakx limiter (threshold, attack, release, max amount of gain reduction, etc) Thanks, Chris
  4. Adding an 8 ohm cab, in parallel, with a 4 ohm cab, will LOWER the ohms , I think it's somewhere around 2.8. Doing this is ill-advised because the 4 ohm cab would get 2/3 of the power and the 8 ohm cab would get 1/3, therefore the 4 ohm cab will be twice as loud as the 8. I agree with Jon's statement: "you're not going to get more than 400 watts to each of your JRX-125s with the single 402 amp you have now. If you're getting the volume you need without clipping, you'll be fine. If not, you need a bigger amp."
  5. Wood, If you can get the sound levels without significant clipping; you have enough power. "Lower power" amps do not damage speakers; excessive clipping does. Unfortunately many people do not hesitate to drive a "lower power" amp into severe clipping because they THINK it is "safe" with the higher power speakers. When the clip lights start to occasionally flicker that's the amps "safe" limit , beyond that; ANY amp may quickly damage speakers . NOTE: With a "lower" power amp most pro operators will allow the amp to clip a little on the peaks, if necessary, but no more. The little bit of extra sound, achieved by "hard"/significant clipping, isn't worth the potential damage. There is no way to "switch" your amp to 2 ohms. Ohms load is determined by the speaker configuration. For example: if you put (2) 4 ohm speakers on each channel; your amp would "see" a 2 ohm load on each channel, but since 2 speakers are sharing the channel, each speaker would only get half of that channels 2 ohm power. Chris
  6. Here's the skinny on bridging amps, Bridging combines the voltage of both channels. It does this by inverting the input signal going to channel 2 and only using ch1+ ch2+ outputs, So, for example, when CH1+ is "Positive" 20 volts, CH2+ will be "negitive" 20 volts and the speaker that is "between" them will experience 40 volts. Here's what to keep in mind as far as bridging goes: An "8 Ohm bridged" load; will recieve/use the COMBINED 4 ohm power of the amp and a "4 ohm bridged" load will recieve/use the COMBINED 2 ohm power of the amp. For example, if an amp is rated at 100w per channel @ 4 ohms and you bridge the amp with an 8 ohm load that speaker/load will recieve 200w; the COMBINED 4 ohm power. So if you have an amp with which you are confortable having a four ohm load on each channel, you can be equally confortable bridging that amp to an 8 ohm load (the amp won't know the difference!). Any modern power amp that is rated for 2 ohm service, will be fine wih an eight ohm bridged load (remember you are only using the "4 ohm power") Most modern amps, that are rated for 2 ohm service, will tolerate a 4-ohm-bridged load just fine as long as you keep it cool and don't overdrive/clip it. It is especially important, in most 4-ohm bridged (or 2 ohm stereo) applications to avoid clipping. I have several amps in use at local night clubs, 4-ohms bridged, and have never had any trouble out of them. Note: I DO have an external limiter on these systems to prevent the DJ's from excessivly clipping the amps. My limiters are set for right at the amps clip threshold, (club owners want max volume!) so some clipping still occurs, but it is VERY minimal and my amps have tolerated it well. If necessary; I could reduce my limiter threshold and clipping would not occur at all. Bottom line: With most modern solid state amps: you can reliably bridge them if they are rated for such, just remember if your configuration is for the maximum amp power/rating (4 ohms bridged, on a 2 ohm amp, for example) , you MUST AVOID clipping and have PLENTY of fresh/cool air avaiable to the amp. Chris
  7. David, Did you mean to suggest 12 gauge, instead of 16? If the unit comes with a 14 gauge cord; wouldn't a longer length require a larger wire and a LOWER gauge.
  8. Some units that have Digital Signal Procesing may allow the user to make signal level adjustments, in several "places" along the DSP. What "zeroing" is most likely refering to is, setting all DSP signal level controls to "unity" gain (no boost/no cut, signal passes unaffected), to correct a "mysterious" gain problem. Typically, all internal DSP gains should be kept at unity, unless there is a NEED to adjust them. The attenuators on the front pannel should used to regulate the amp when possible. If your amp is behaving like it is supposed to, for your application, i wouldn't worry about trying "zero" it. Remember: If in aint broke... C
  9. Refer to page 24 of the manual. Set up the input "Y" for "CH1+CH2" if you are feeding the amp a stereo (two channel) signal or "INPUT Y" if you are only using a mono signal, and then set-up the X-over for 100hz. When using the built in crossover; CH 1. will always be LOW/SUBS and CH 2. will always be HIGH/FULL RANGE. Hope this helps, C
  10. Jon, OK, that's what I thought you were getting at. Good luck, C
  11. I have been using a CE 1000 in bridge mono to power two 8 ohm speakers. The unit never gets as warm as I expect. Does it, by chance, have the same cooling system as the CE 2000? C
  12. Jon, I'm not entirelly sure I know what you're talking about either, but here goes. If you wire 2- 2 ohm loads in series; the actual impedance on the circuit becomes 4 ohms. If the amp you with to use is rated for "4 ohms bridged" then it should work. Amps do not "care" about the impedance of individual componets; they only "care" about the ACTUAL impedance between there "+" and "-" connection(s). C
  13. QUOTE: "the jrx's have only 1 speakon connection and 1 trs connection which are wired in parallel. for this reason, you will not be able to feed both of your top cabinet jrxs off one channel of the amp" Why not? Just use cables that are suitable for the connections that are available. For example: Amp "speakon" to speaker-1 "speakon". Speaker-1 "1/4 inch" to speaker-2 "1/4 inch". Speaker-2 "speakon" to speaker-3 "speakon" and so on, if desired... C
  14. The DBX 234 has switches and jacks labled for two-way operation. Just set the switches and use the jacks as indicated for "2 way" operation. C
  15. Think of your 202 as two seperate amplifiers in one chasis. When the unit is in bridge-mono mode the signal at ch 1's input is internally routed to BOTH amplifiers, however, it inverts (or reverses the polarity) of the signal that goes to Ch. 2. So, in bridge-mono; when Ch 1's red post has a positive output, Ch. 2's red post has a has a negitive output. If you connect a speaker's "+" to Ch 1's red post, and the speakers "-" to Ch. 2's red post the speaker will get twice the voltage, because, for example, when ch1+ goes 20 volts positive, ch2+ will go 20 volts negitive at the same time and the speaker "sees" 40 volts. Now, to actually answer your question: putting the unit in bridge-mono mode, with one input signal, and the speakers connected for "stereo" will not hurt the unit, however, the speaker connected to ch2. will be out of phase (remember the automatic inversion), to correct this, just reverse/flip your channel 2 speaker connection. In other words on ch2.; put the speaker's "+" on the BLACK post and the speaker's "-" on the RED post. You could also purchase a "Y" adapter and use it to patch your input signal to BOTH amp inputs, and use the amp as described for stereo operation, this will allow to use the attentuators on the amp to control each speaker individually, if you wish. If you use the bridge-mono setting on the amp, remember Ch 1's attenuator will control everything and ch 2's must be OFF (Full CCW). C