Bob007

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  1. One more suggestion. When I had the switch apart replacing the lamp I noticed that the switch contacts were becoming pitted due to startup current surge. Putting the unit on an external switch i.e. power strip, will save the switch from further damage. If new ones were available this would not be an issue. But they apparently are not
  2. I need to install two amps together in a rack one being a CE2000. The other, a Carver PM1200 has rear to front air flow that can not easily be changed. Would it damage the CE2000 if the fan was reversed for rear to front air flow? I do NOT want to take a chance on damaging my Crown, however as it is they will be eating each others heat. Obviously I can seperate them but I would like to have them together. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi Hamilton, I looked up the input sensitivity for the DC300, 1.75v for full output. I suspect your CD player is no where near that. Look up a post on the general discussion side of this forum dated 10/29/05 "Crown amps for home audio use." There is a ton of information there. Good luck! Bob
  4. Hi Hamilton, You will probably hear from some of the real pros about this, however unless you have a problem with your DC300, which I doubt, I suspect you are not driving it with the needed input. I drive mine with a Makie 1402VLZ running the +4dBu output setting and do just fine. If you read other posts on this site there are many listings about using pro auto gear with home type preamps. There are references to matching boxes from Rolls. That may be your problem as you did not mention what you are using to drive your DC300. My DC300A will output chest thumping bass through 2 EV215 bass boxes. Congrats on the new DC300, I have owned mine for over 20 years and still use it every day. It is surly one of the best amps ever made. As for 120 volts, the DC300A can be internally re-wired for other voltages, however I have no idea what the amp would do if it were wired for, lets say 220v. Probably something MUCH worse than just low audio. Good luck, Bob
  5. Hi, This question is about how Crown rates power output. With my CE2000 connected to 2 Dale 50 watt 2 ohm resistors in serious, at full power, single channel, I measured 72 volts at the output terminals. If I am doing the math correctly that is 1296 watts. Other amps I have tested this way always fell within, or less than rated output. I know these resistors are rated at 50 watts so I never test for longer than it takes to get a reading. Is it possible that the CE2000 can output 1296 watts single channel for short periods like this? Or is my load causing an erroneous reading. At what current does the amp start to limit? 72v into 4 ohms would be 18 amps. Thanks in advance.... Bob
  6. The settings i was referring to were the crossover settings. Also, what are the best input cables to use for the CE-4000? All i need are 3-6 ft. cables. Any particular brand i should use/buy? Thanks for the help. 2286[/snapback] It would be best to ask the speaker manufacture their recommendations for a crossover setting. However, in general, subs crossover in the range of 80 to 120 Hz. As far as cables go any good name brand should do fine like Whirlwind. ProCo, Hosa or Monster. They all make low cost and higher cost cables, that will work, it would all depend on how much you want to spend. 2292[/snapback] Problem... I hooked up my CE-4000 (brand new, bought 8 days ago!) to the above system & everything worked fine, i turned the system off (all levels down, shut off power conditioners etc.), unplugged power conditioners from the wall outlets, next day i power up and now ch.1 doesn't work. I checked all cables, there are no fault indicators lit. Help, please thanks. 2318[/snapback] I would try to isolate the failure by doing some basic test procedures. Swapping the speaker cables will verify they are not the fault. Then Swapping the amplifier input cables will test channel 1. If everything checks out there you know the failure is ahead if the amplifier and speakers. Keep going back to your source to find the failure. The system you describe has many interconnection cables, that always adds to the complexity of locating a problem especially if it is intermittent. Please post when you find the problem. Bob....
  7. You did not choose the wrong brand you bought the wrong amp! Crown makes the best audio amplifiers in the world. If easy bridge mono is important Crown makes many models that fit the bill. Do yourself a favor, calm down and stay with Crown. No one else comes close.... Down the road you will thank me Bob
  8. I too have had service issues handled by Crown in a manner that was second to none, truly world class. Anyone serious about audio would be making a SERIOUS mistake running any other brand. I suspect not many have ever had a need to use Crown's service facility due to the quality, but if you ever do you will be amazed. Bob
  9. This is a good question, I am running a DC300A bridged mono into a 4 ohm sub. Not sure but I think the 300A and the series II are the same output driver configuration. The amp never runs hot or even warm but I don't run it very hard either. The owners manual for the DC300A states that it will safely drive any load so I never worried. Maybe David would share his wisdom on this one. I could easily series my twin 18 sub for 16 ohms but I would be loosing power. However, would sure rather loose power than output devices! 2238[/snapback] Same guy a few hours later... After thinking about this, , running my DC300A bridged into a 4 ohm load probably is not a good idea. If I understand how bridging works, this effectively places a 2 ohm load on the amp. When the manual says it drive any load, I think they meant type of load not resistance. So, for now I am just using one channel and will series the 18" for 16 ohms THEN bridge them. Bob...
  10. This is a good question, I am running a DC300A bridged mono into a 4 ohm sub. Not sure but I think the 300A and the series II are the same output driver configuration. The amp never runs hot or even warm but I don't run it very hard either. The owners manual for the DC300A states that it will safely drive any load so I never worried. Maybe David would share his wisdom on this one. I could easily series my twin 18 sub for 16 ohms but I would be loosing power. However, would sure rather loose power than output devices!
  11. That serial number comes up as a CE1000. This is not to say that Guitar Center cheated you. It could be also one of the extremely rare occurrences were the amp was mislabeled from the factory. 2227[/snapback] Question about serial numbers. I see that some CE2000s start with an A and others start with a B. Is there a reason for this? Thanks, Bob
  12. I have read several postings about CE2000s making bad noises when driven into clipping. I got curious and put mine on the bench into a 4 ohm pure resistive load and hit it with a audio signal generator with a scope in the output. I was amazed to see that even with the clipping light on constantly the output wave form never showed any signs of clipping. It would run right to full power putting out a beautiful sine-wave no matter how much harder I drove it. I know a sine-wave input is not a 'real life' test, but I still found it interesting. So the question is, are they hearing clipping or maybe the current limiting circuit kicking in? I do not have a big enough 2 ohm load to try, but I am not a fan of running 2 ohms anyway. I know CE 2000 is rated for use at 2 ohms but is it a good idea? Bob
  13. Thank you, Bob. I always try to keep things as original as possible, so I'd have considered to rebuild the original switch, but this time seems almost impossible, since the lower part of the switch (where the light is housed) has melted! But I'll be very happy if you can tell me what kind of 'small neon' lamp have you used to replace the burned one (please keep in mind here in Italy we do not have Radio Shack). Thanks again. 2193[/snapback] Hi Amedeo, Sorry to hear that the switch housing is fried. Makes me think something shorted in the switch as the power bulb does not run hot. You could order one of the new switches from crown, David posted that pn above, and try to install a light in the new one. However the new switch is not lit and the rocker probably will not have the red lens in the middle. I have not seen one. You may be able to use your old rocker with a neon or LED in the switch. Radio Shack pn 272-704 is a 120v panel mount neon lamp that you can break open to get the bulb. I think you are 220v so a different value resistor would be required. If you go LED, which would sure be a longer lasting fix, you will need to find some low voltage DC to drive the lamp through the current limiting resistor. One more thought, I think the switch was made by Levitron with a part number stamped into the metal attaching ears. I know David said that it was no longer available, but you might check with them. Good luck!!
  14. Hi Amedeo, I too had a 300A with a dead power light. This may be more trouble than you are willing to go to, however I was able to disassemble the switch and replace the lamp. Small neon job from Radio Shack. I drilled out the switch retainers, soldered in the new lamp and it's as good as new. I used small screws and nuts to hold the switch halfs together. I LOVE my 300A. Not the most powerful Crown I own but for home audio it has done it's job for me for over 20 years. PLEASE disconnect power prior to attempting this repair