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  1. Yes they are, and I would advise agains the purchase of dual 15" driver units. This is becuase if you eevr decide to get subs you will be left with a system that is large and heavy. If you vuy the 515s then you can get pole mounts and, at a later time, if you deciede to get subs you can get single or dual 18's and be fine size and weight wise.
  2. Thankyou that helps VERY much, espeicaly the rough coorilation between a 50% duty cycle and the 1/8 power pink noise. - Eric
  3. What is the Benefit to Parallel Mono? This is something that I have seen before and seeing it being asked again on the forums has re-raised my curiosity. Assuming my understanding is correct BRIDGE-Mono is the summation of 2 channels that are out of phase to generate a a wave double of the magnitude that one would gain from running a single channel under the same circumstances. Now If my understandings are correct this is making a circuit in series which lowers the damping factor because you are doubling the resistance of the output circuitry. EX: if 1 ch has a resistance of 0.04 ohms and is being loaded with a 8 ohm load this results in a damping factor of 200. But, If you mono-bridge (series the channels) you get a amp resistance of 0.08 resulting in a damping factor of 100. With that example stated can one assume that by paralleling-mono'ing 2 channels together using the previous examples parameters one could gain an amp with a 0.02 resistance thus resulting in a damping factor of 400 into a 4 ohm load? And, if this is the case can some one please fill in the blank?: (assuming: amp ohm = 0.04) 1ch @ 4 ohms = 100 watts (DF = 100) 2ch bridge @ 8 ohms = 200 watts (DF = 100) 2ch parallel@ 4 ohms = ??? watts (DF = 200?) Can some one help with this?
  4. I have been looking over several pieces of information and am trying to gain an understanding of what I am running my amps at and what kinda of power draw I am incurring. (assuming perfect [for the sake of example] conditions 120v lines) From what I have read a 1/8th power pink noise generated signal is equivalent to running music just at/below clip (no clip indication from amp, and source is <0db on a +4dbu -> 1.4v (+4dbu?) amp input. If this is correct can I assume: If an amplifier is rated for 12A draw @ 1/8 power then running either full range or just bass (40-120hz) at <0db (from the mixer given previous stated parmeters) will also yield a 1/8 power load on the amp? Also, what is the correlation between the 1/8, 1/3, full power rating system and the 10-50% duty cycle rating system? Can I assume that 1/8 power is a 12.5% duty cycle and 1/3 is 33.3% duty cycle? (I don't believe this to be the case but its the only logical correlation I can make) Thanks for your time. - Eric
  5. Im sorry for my poor termonology, I have one (1) of these dual 18" cabs taht i am running the amp into in bridge mode at 4 ohms. Im not sure why the amp makes popping noises. Everything is wired correctly. +1 +2 Amp Channel 1, Switch set to Bridge Mode +1 -1 To speaker (single box) with 4ohm rating. Signal to amp is going through a crossover @ rouglky 120 Hz. If clip light flicks in bridge mode nasty pop noise comes out speaker; but in normal mode (660w @4ohm single line to cab +/-1 to +/-1) nothing major the light just flicks.
  6. I have a Yamaha SW218V (cont 1200 / peak 2400 W) that im tying to run on my CE2000 in bridge mode. I set the amp to bridge and i repinned the cable to +1 +2 on the amp side. normaly if i accedentilay flicker the clip light no big deal you dont really hear anythign and i know to pull back, which doesnt susulay happen any way becuase i have everything set at level. But in bridge mode if the clip light flickers i get a nasty pop noise out the speaker and im really concerned. Do you know what is going on? When i run the subs off one channel it can handel the full 660 no problem even if the clip light flicks, and the whole system is fine. Whats going on here?