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  1. Finally got my hands on the XLS-802 today and have to say, it handles the 4ohm bridged load fairly well, much better than I was expecting. I had it playing music at quite a high level for about an hr and a half and the amp barely seemed warm. Now to re-familiarise myself with the DRPA...
  2. Theoretically if he can clip the amp then the input source is providing a signal with enough power. How are the subs connected? is the amp bridged? have you used the subs with another similar wattage amp before and got better results?
  3. I can't seem to find any below $80 + shipping on eBay, are there any other places that I should look? It would be a LOT of work to port my current box, i'd like the port to be on the front and then it would have to go in one the corners around the sub with a max of a 4" port. It would end up having about an 8db increase in volume at 20hz and would require a HPF at roughly 16.5hz and to find one that accurate, it would need to be digital, so I think i'd be looking at $100+ + shipping. I'm not too bothered with that at the moment anyway, The sealed enclosure does what I want (makes everything rumble) to a reasonable extent anyway. I'm quite comfortable with the DRPA and have used and calibrated it quite a few times. The only thing I dislike about it is the "pop" if you accidentally turn it off before the amps.
  4. I wish they employed someone like you at my high school, everything is just dumped on the eldest member of the tech crew and a few ex students who volunteer their time. Sounds like you do some pretty decent sized gigs! Yeah it is WinISD, I can see how it would react in a certain ported enclosure but the thing is that I don't own a variable high pass filter (I have a fixed 30hz but I have tried it and don't like it) or a crossover that would work. the DRPA is something that I'm borrowing If I were to go ported, I would need to either find a HPF or to be super careful with the volume in movies with LFE content :S
  5. @Dakos Yeah I'm planning to have about a week of tinker time to adjust it to something that I like. I'm just going to go off what sounds nice across a few different varieties of songs. From memory, it's actually two different tweeters, one is a dome tweeter and one is a two inch standardish looking tweeter (looks like a small midrange type design) and they are both on different outputs of the crossover so I assume that they are getting different frequency's. Yeah I am familiar with that, I don't actually own a smart variable crossover so that was another reason why I went sealed over ported. It's not my DRPA, it's just one that I can get my hands on for a few weeks. Thanks haha, I actually used no power tools (no circ saw's or anything, didn't even have a battery drill for doing the screws up at the time) other than a jigsaw for the curves and fiddly bits. I wish I still had access to a EV P3000, makes my sub rock hard haha I'm going to have to think of something elaborate to manage the power for this, there will also be 700ish watts of LED's that will need to be powered + 500-1000w of other electronics.
  6. I don't have the amp yet, will be getting it in a few weeks. I'll definitely give it a shot. It sounds like the chances of permanent damage are pretty low, just overheating and excessive power draw :S If you're interested Dakos, here is a link to my facebook build log : http://www.facebook....=3&l=e0bb21122c I could have built a lower frequency box but at the time I was scared of tearing the surround so decided to go sealed, If I were to do it again I would go with a ported design as they tend to be more efficient and go lower (to a point). Although I have heard on some HT forums that sealed boxes seem to "feel" louder/more violent and ported boxes are less violent but sound louder. I'll be using it with a DRPA and some DIY mid-boxes that I made a few years ago and if I can manage to find them somewhere, I had some older DIY-Bookshelf speakers with a fairly nice dual tweeter design that I might set as high boxes Complete setup will consist of: Something to feed the DRPA with a +4dbv signal (not sure what I'll use atm) Driverack PA ---"Lows" - Crown XLS-802 - CSS SDX15 (as mentioned in this thread) - 30-90hz ---"Mids" - Either a Behringer iNUKE NU1000 or an Australian Monitor KA800 - 4x 8 ohm DIY Mid boxes - Probably 90hz-2khz ---"Highs" - Either a Behringer iNUKE NU1000 or an Australian Monitor KA800 - 2x 16 ohm DIY High boxes - Probably 2khz-infinite I'll probably end up changing the freq range of the mid's and highs and possibly overlapping them.
  7. Exactly, basically everyone posting in the DIY Speaker/sub section at hometheatreshack http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-speakers-diy-subwoofers/ are either using very high wattage plate amps (500-1000w) or pro amps for their subs. Behringer products are commonly used as they are so cheap and reliability is usually not an issue. Yeah, Home theatre designed subwoofers are designed to go as low as possible and usually feature huge excursions ranging from 10mm-2" (One way). Efficiency is not a primary concern when designing HT subs. Hmm ok, I think I may just have to give it a shot and see how it goes. Have you had any personal experience using 4ohm bridged loads on the old XLS series?
  8. it's in a 19" cube sealed box (was more of a diy/hobby type project really) I use it with a Behringer iNUKE NU1000 that I got for $99 because it had a scratch on the faceplate but I am borrowing a Crown XLS 802 off a friend to use for a house party. The behringer is alright for ~250w or less volumes but once you get to about 500w, the sound starts to get less punchy and more muddy. I borrowed a EV P3000 off a friend for a weekend and had a play around with that and it was REALLY nice but it's out of my price range haha. I'm a student, I had no money in the budget for a crown amp after I finished the sub.
  9. Home theatre Sub not a car sub, designed to go to lower frequency's than most pro subs.
  10. A Creative Sound Solutions SDX 15 subwoofer. http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-SDX15-data-121107.pdf
  11. Hi, I have a 4 ohm 2x2ohm DVC (stable, will not dip below 4ohms for 20-80hz) subwoofer that I want to use with a crown XLS-802. I have noticed that it's not recommended to run the amp at 2 ohms per channel due to excessive power draw and heat, Would these issues still occur with a 240v/50hz mains? Otherwise my only other option would be to connect the subwoofer to just one channel of the amp. What's the rated power @ 4 ohms if only one channel is driven? still 800w? Thanks for your help