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About 1958sedwards

  1. Hi Thanks for the reply. I was hoping to stay with the XTI range if possible. Are the ITech amps that much better for sub duty than the XTI range? Here in Australia the ITechs are harder to come by on the used market and are quite a bit more expensive new. Regards Steve
  2. Hi all Just purchased a pair of JBL SR218S subs and was wondering what the concensus was for the best amplifier. I currently have a XTI 6002 for the subs. This is rated for 2100 watts into 4 ohms per channel. Is this a good combination or should I consider another alternative. I currently use a XTI 4002 on mids (XTI 2002 horns) and could move the XTI6002 to mids and buy another XTI 4002 (3,200 watts/channel) or even buy another XTI 6002 (6,000 watts/channel) and bridge. Any ideas from experience would be appreciated. Steve
  3. Hi 26db of ampifier gain is equivilent to a voltage gain of 20. What this means is a 1 volt signal in will be amplified to 20 volts by the amplifier! As Kevin said the amplifier attenuator is approximately calibrated but you could double check the gain of the amplifier by injecting a 1 volt signal (check this signal with a multimeter) and confirming you have 20 volts (again checked with a multimeter) at the amplifier output connections (with no speakers connected). Definately the software adjustment will give you finer control of your gain setting. I hope this makes some sence. Regards Steve
  4. Hi guys I have been part of some of the replies on the other site regarding the addition of subs to quasi three way top boxes. Without even attempting to steal any of Marty M's data, the basic criticism is that a dual 15 top box does not respond as well with subs as a single 15 top box. There is a fundemental flaw in the fact that just adding a sub WILL improve your sound. If the top box (with dual 15 inch drivers) normally goes to 40 - 50 Hz and has been designed to act as a quasi three way (both 15s giving the extreme lows but the top only giving the higher frequencies before the horn cuts in) then electronically crossing over (at say 80 - 120 Hz) removes a large area where both 15s are actually used. The average punter then adds his single 18 sub. This single 18 inch driver then has to move the same amount of air as the dual 15 did but with a much smaller cross sectional area. The bottom line is unless you add significant sub woofers the actual bass extension could actually be less than the dual 15s. The other fact is you have paid for the dual 15s and are not using most of the benefits. The ideal solution is to use an auxillary fed sub. Leave the qusi three ways to run full range and then let the subs (crossed over at say 80 - 150 Hz) just supplement bass instruments eg. bass guitar, kick drum. This solution gets the best bang for you buck from the quasi three way boxes. I hope this makes some sence. Regards Steve
  5. Hi As Kevin has stated if all you are using the amp for is in a "full range" situation then the preset file is not really needed. If your desire is to biamp the Peavey SP2 speakers or add a subwoofer then that will be different. Post back what your intentions are. Regards Steve
  6. Hello all I am seriously considering upgrading my old heavy amplifiers to the modern light weight XTI range. For my top boxes Iam looking at an XTI2000 for the horns and a XTI4000 for the 15 inch drivers. I have read that the XTI has a DSP section with 3 stages of limiting (3dB, 6dB and 12dB) Can you explain the effect on the output power when this function is activated. For example, does selecting 3dB limit the output power to 1/2 (1200 watts@4 ohms to 600watts@4 ohms) or is it more a 3dB decrease in the signal to power amp stage (ie how would this affect the actual power output?). The way the limiter works could affect which amplifier I eventually purchase. Thanks in anticipaton. Regards Steve