Kip Whitehead

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Kip Whitehead

  • Rank
    Power User
  1. Send an e-mail to Rodney Hartman at and he will send you info on a new part and a note on how to install the new part. Thanks, Kip
  2. Each channel has a CMR pot on the input side. I have seen cases of the pot becoming dirty and can cause level differecnes per channel. You could also swap the front pot connections from channel to channel to see if the level difference follows. You may have a bad or dirty pot. Thanks Kip Whitehead Crown FSE
  3. Can you give me the part number of your Main board? The switching happens on the control board and want to make sure it's not the control board. Typically if it's locked low you have an open resistor like R708 for channel 1 or the 555 timer is bad. This switching is also driven by ODEp. As your ODEP voltage drops it will take the amp out of VZ and back into it's low state. Is your ODEP voltages good? Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown Technical Support
  4. Your IT9000HD is under warranty and should be returned to an authorized service center of Crown for repair. You run the risk of voiding your warranty by repairing the amp yourself. Where are you located to see who we have in your area or at least get you in contact with our service department to have the amp come back to Crown for repair. Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown Technical Support
  5. Sorry but this particular item is not a Crown product. Crown of Japan is not affiliated to us so we do not have any schematic or service material for these items. Sorry, Kip Whitehead Crown Technical Support
  6. Kuni, CE boards are no longer available. Those haven't been made for 5 years now and parts is all out of stock on them. The only thing that can be done is to fix the board that's in the amp, if possible. Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown Technical Support
  7. The mute circuit should technically release around the time the relays click as the fault and mute circuit are seperate circuits. The relays have no impact on the mute so if the mute is not deactivating then you would be able to scope the signal up to that point with nothing after as the sugnal is shorted to ground. Thanks, Kip
  8. The in-rush cpmponents are PTC and are 6 Ohm 265V ratings. You can order them fro our parts department at part # 101103-1. If the power supply is stuck in VZ mode, make sure the mosfet's along the side of the cap assembly are not shorted. If those are good then replace the 555 chip. Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown technical Support
  9. Pud, I can e-mail you a print of the transformer if needed but what you are posting for what the amp is doing would not be caused by the transformer. J2 wires 3&4 is the thermal sensor, if that sensor opened the amp would be in fault mode and the fan would run full speed. I take it channel 1 works fine and it's the clipping on channel 2 that is the issue. This could be caused by a couple of things. 1) Depending on the speaker load (impedance), if some of the emitter resistors for channel 2 outputs opened that will cause a higher voltage drop which goes to the amps current limiting circuit. This will cause current limiting to kick in and under lower impedance loads you can start clipping early. 2) One of the leads of the driver is cracked and causing an intermittent connection. When it breaks it's connection you can have clipping. So I would look at the driver leads to make sure one didn't break near the board at the solder pad. Thanks Kip Whitehead Crown Technical Support
  10. Bob, We looked at the drawing at the link and I really don't see the benefit in this type of hook up. I don't get why someone would want three speakers tied together with one 6dB hotter then the other two??? They don't explain the reason for doing this. This seems to be a lot of wiring in order to do this and is something you wire up and leave vs. anything portable. The impedance reading may be 4 Ohms overall as two of the speakers are actually across each channels output in a normal stereo mode with just one across the red posts. So they have a series/parallel thing going on her in order to make it 4 Ohms overall. If it wasn't then it would be 2.66 Ohms if they connected them to just the red posts. Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown technical Support
  11. Rob, The only way to know for sure if you are getting full power is to test it on a bench with a sine wave and measure output voltage. It may only be the IOC LED is out or a connection to the display is bad keeping the LED from turning on. Since it's in bridge mono it could be that there's an issue with ch. 1 and not working properly and clipping early which will turn on the IOC light. If this was the case you would most likey have distorted audio so I don't feel this would be the cause. What you can do is move the sensitivity switch inside the amp back and fourth a few times to clean the contacs. It may be causing each channel to have different sensitivity settings and being in bridge mono it's just one input signal. Channel 1 could be in .775v and channel 2 in 26dB. Then ch. 1 would hit IOC before ch. 2. Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown Technical Support
  12. Amy was out on vacation and maybe getting caught back up on things. You can also contact our distributor in the UK as they may have this part in stock. Here's there info. Sound Technology Letchworth Point Dunhams Lane Letchworth Garden City Hertfordshire SG6 1ND United Kingdom Ph: +44 (0) 1462 480000 E-Mail: Thanks, Kip Crown Technical Support
  13. The VCC rails should be balanced. I believe the MA2400 or 01 models the rails are ~+/-54VDC. The low side swings the signal + or - of the reference point. So if there's a rail shift then you are looking at the low side or a ground refernce as the cause of the problem. I can send you a schematic to match the main board you have. The only thing is it is only for the main oard so nothing output related will be on the print. Send me a request to and I will send you the pdf. Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown technical Support
  14. As long as the firmware on your amp is greater then you have three options for fan operation. Option #1: "Fan HI" This is the default setting out of the box. The fan is set to turn on at 53c heat sink temperature. Option #2: "Fan LO" This option the fan will turn on at 33c heat sink temperature but will not fully turn off until the heat sink reaches 27c. This is great for applications with amps left on for very long periods. At idle the heat sinks can reach 33c and the fans will turn on and help keep air flow through amplifier. Option #3: "Fan On" This option the fan runs full speed and is always on. Activating these options is done via the front panel. As stated before, Fan HI is the default setting. Fan LO, At power up press and hold the Next/Down button in until the amplifier powers up. This will toggle the fan operation to Fan LO. To toggle back to the default mode do this same power up sequence again. Fan ON; At power up press and hold the Sel/Enter button in until the amplifier powers up. This will toggle the fan operation to Fan ON. To toggle back to the default mode do this same power up sequence again. You can verify fan operation by pressing all three buttons in at once below the LCD and hold until the LCD changes. Use the Up or Down button to scroll through and it will tell you what fan operation you are in. To exit, just press the Sel/Enter button. You can also find a virtual Power point on how to do this on the Crown web site by click on this link. On the right hand of the screen you will see the link to XTi Interactive Presentation Thanks, Kip Whitehead Crown Technical Support