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About HeadlineDJ

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    Power User
  • Birthday 03/19/1970

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    North West , UK
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    Music and Technology.
  1. When I use XTi's for Bass I essentially use double the RMS power of the speakers. This gives me the headroom required to push them as required without clipping of any kind. My tops are 300W RMS @ 8 Ohms and for those I use the XTi 4000 which gives me 650W RMS at 8 Ohms per channel. I set my gain structure so that for maximum output at any given event my mixer does not need to travel past the 0db point on the output fader. This then serves as the global level monitor also, as over time using this method I know how much power I am using based on the faders position. I've read and scanned over this thread and my first thought would be to use the next amp up in the series. This allows for more headroom within your modus operandi. I hope I grasped the right end of the stick, as it's now 3:10am here and I am rather tired. :-)
  2. New panel arrived today. Fitted and working perfectly. I did notice the re-design on the board and a few component value changes which resulted in the new board being visibly brighter than my other amps, on both the LCD and LED's. Once again Thank You to Crown for their prompt service.
  3. Ok, New part is on the way.. Thank you Crown Support !! I finally got to upload a pic I took of the LCD in question. The artifacts on the LCD are growing each time I use it, so will be useless soon.
  4. ok, thanks for that.
  5. I agree the DSP is very good for this level of amp. If only the settings could be user selected throughout You know how it is... you guys give us a great product, and we respond by wanting a better one
  6. On one of my XTi's the LCD has gained some odd looking artifacts, it's not the actual LCD panel itself, as everything still displays, the artifacts look like something between two of the glass layers, however these are slowly getting worst and the LCD is becoming unreadable over time. It's as though the Glass layers are de-laminating, the artifacts remind me of some kind of bacteria in a petri dish, as they grow.. I'll try to grab a photo later to add,, but for now, what is the procedure for getting a new LCD fitted or the part supplied as I can fit myself. The amp is under warranty until 19th June 2010 @ 4:01:52PM (love them test tickets), however I am in the UK and I bought the Amp Stateside.
  7. There are other threads on here that describe the wiring in detail, however for Bridge mode you should be using +1 and +2 as the feed from the amp with +1 and -1 at the speaker end. Best to make a specific lead up for this and mark one end or colour code the Speakon so you know which end goes to the amps each time. You can use the banana posts or use the Ch1 speakon socket as this has both channels wired to it, look at the rear of the amp, it's on the label. Remember you need to use +1 and +2 only for bridge mode. Just checked the Manual.. Page 13 has the instructions with diagrams.... PICTURES!! hehe
  8. Just to add my 2 cents Have you thought of using a smaller driver say a 10", as this would give a more controlled tighter kick to the sound. Smaller drivers are faster than larger ones and more compact. I have a 4 box system I use with XTi 4000 and 2000's and they all feature 10" drivers, the bass and kick is very tight with a nice controlled sound.
  9. Hello all the guys at Crown Currently the XTi range features the following Limiter settings: OFF -3dB -6dB -12dB I tried to set my amps to -9dB as this would be the perfect limiter level for a specific job, however the amp returns an Invalid Value error. Is it possible in any way to set this as a Limiter Value? probably will require a Firmware update At present I have had to use -6dB and then adjust the input attenuation via SA v2 and lower the input by a further 3dB. Also to further protect the subs from misuse I have uncoupled the channels on the input side to reduce by a further 3dB. So.. what are the chances of having a wider user selectable Limiting value via SA in the future? It would be nice if all values could be 100% editable.. so whatever figures I need I can simply create a custom control and type it directly in. The last couple of days I've been creating more custom panels to monitor the effectiveness of the limiting stages, they do work, but can pump at times, also a reduction in input signal can result in a higher output as the limiter eases off. I know at the end of the day it's only an Amp, however with a DSP built in the possibilities are essentially endless within scope of the actual processing power.
  10. Well ideally you should be aiming for what is known as Unity Gain, whereby a 0dB level at source provides a 0dB input at the amps, and everything in between maintains this level. However in your case we can simply go about trying to increase the signal path gain enough to give you the desired output. I must point out though, the signal level you are after might have been above the ideal level for your system and you might not be able to achieve this without further pre-amplification, though this should not really be required. As I stated in my first reply, check all the level settings on your source, which I guess in your case is a laptop or PC of some kind. As you used to use an external USB device for audio there is a strong chance this also used a 3rd party audio mixer (software level), and bypassed the Windows Mixer (built into windows - software level) I would enter the control panel and check all settings for the audio devices, ensure they are all turned up to at least 75%, I tend to run most software levels at approx 90% as some cheaper devices can add noise at full levels. Within Windows Mixer you will have the Main out level or Stereo Out, whatever it is called on your machine, you will also have a WAVE, PCM or Playback level.. double check all these are set to at least 75%. If from this stage the audio is piped right into the USB devices on the mixer (hardware level), then check for an attenuation switch on the back of the mixer that is labeled (-10dB / +4dB), make sure this is set to +4dB. Basically -10dB is a domestic level setting for Home Audio and +4dB is a professional level for PA equipment. You should be able to achieve the amplifiers full output using any standard mixer capable of +4dB, given the input source is sufficient, which at line level should be fine. just ensure the volumes and level throughout Windows and the playback software are high enough. What I have described above is a generalisation to help, without knowing all the specifics it would be difficult to give any further help. If you still have the old USB sound device, you could try testing that again to see if the output is indeed higher than it is now.
  11. Balanced or Un-Balanced would not have any effect on signal level, Balanced lines reject noise whereas Un-Balanced do not. The mixer should have an output of +4dB, I'd suggest going through the entire signal path and checking the gain structure. Make sure the software levels are high enough, windows mixer settings, input gain on mixer and that the amp controls are set correctly.
  12. 20A circuit at what voltage? At 110v the qty would be different than at 220v - 240v Also measuring the real time current draw can be difficult due to the PFC which can fool some digital meters into giving false readings. I measured a XTi 4000 running two full range 8 ohm cabs at full volume and the meter gave me a reading of 0.63A @ 242v so that would be roughly 1.5A @ 110v Ideally you'd be better with an analogue meter in conjunction with a clamp meter to get a better reading. You could of course use the given wattage on the rear label and use that as a guide, I think the value given is the maximum.
  13. You can adjust the DSP with free software call System Architect. Quite easy to use, the XTi with SA might even have your JBL settings preset.
  14. You could use something like 4-core 3mm Sq speaker cable. If you only require 2 cores for the subs, double the cores up, so effectively giving you 6mm sq cable. Over long runs the fatter the better really as you get a lower cable impeadence and thus a lower loss. 4-core 2.5mm sq is more common and will also work ok.
  15. I use two subs which are both 4 ohms each on an XTi. I run a stereo signal into the amp and have the amp set to CH1+CH2 mode, which essentially makes it a MONO signal or rather a mixed stereo sgnal to each channel. I then use two speaker cables, one for each channel into each sub. I then use each volume control on the front panel. Works for me. I made my own patch panel for my rack so I can run 4 core cable to each sub, so each single cable carries the sub feed and the mid/top feed. I then use a small patch cable to link my mid/tops from the subs (another custom modification of my own). I then use system Architect to adjust the finer settings and then load in the presets. I often run with my subs spread out so hence the need for me to have individual control of channel volumes, so if one requires a lower setting I can simply turn that one sub down a little etc.. Hope this helps in some way.