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About wolfgong

  1. Sorry I've not had time to get use of an xti to try this out. Maybe one of the gang here can jump in.
  2. FYI. I know where there is a K2 for sale that is in really good shape if you are interested. The place is run by honest people and I can check on the price if you like. Cheers!
  3. Newb - First of all you appear to have two posts with the same content out here, you will want to delete one of them (not this one I hope) because people will not want to post to either if they think it may soon be deleted. Next it would help to know the purpose of your system. Such as DJ, live rock, etc. Next please give model numbers of the Yamaha monitors so we can look up the impedence and wattage. That should give us a pretty good start. Cheers!
  4. Jon - Sorry, I'm not familiar with that sub setup. Hopefully someone else with jump in here. I hope it works out for you!
  5. Jon - What model sub are you thinking of buying for your single sub? I doubt if it's 2ohms out of the box. I have one application where I'm bridging an XLS402D to a JBL JRX118S which is rated at 4 ohms. That works fine. Let me know. I'm interested in knowing if there are 2 ohm subs out there.
  6. Sorry for the delay. I did one post a couple of weeks ago, but I must have fouled something because next time l looked out here, my post wasn't here. Anyway, I've downloaded the xti manual and I can't yet tell how to set up your amp for your purpose. So I downloaded SA and will try to install that and see if I can borrow an amp from my friend and play with it. From reading the manual I can tell you that you will likely NOT use: the Y function, as you will be running in stereo the DEL or delay function the BRG or Bridge function You will want to use: the Limiter function You will likely use the: EQ function and the XOVR or Crossover function. I'll read more on this and hopefully play around a bit with one. I'm sure there must be others that can comment on setting up your amp so you have a wet and dry two channel output. Let me know if you've discovered anything interesting in the mean time. Again, I apologize for the delay. Cheers!
  7. Excellent information from all three of you. I have the crown perspective from DGlass on how the amps are designed to function, the white paper on proper cooling and the voice of experience even in extreme temperature situations. That's all I need. I stand corrected, I was ignorant on how the technology has improved. I formed my understanding of amplifiers and how heat effected them back in the late '80's. We had a DC300 and a 'brand new' micro tech 1200. They both ran really hot. I guess crown and others have improved a great deal since those days. After reading the Midwest White paper, (OK... not all of it), it looks like ventilation is getting the attention it deserves. It's also nice to hear from an experienced user that there have been no issues with thermal overload across a variety of crown amplifier designs. Thank you all very much! I appreciate knowing how things really work so I can make good choices in design and configuration.
  8. OK, I heard someone say something that I thought was pretty ignorant, so I thought I would check it out here. My premise on heat and amplifiers when simplified goes something like this: All amplifiers create a certain amount of heat. The less heat generated, the more power available to be used to produce sound. The less heat effecting the amp the more 'room' the amp will have before thermal protection begins to effect the resulting sound. OK, so this guy says we should all stack our amps right on top of each other so that this will force air to flow through the amps and thus the airflow will be as designed, flowing through the amps. This sounds really lame to me but I wanted to see what you guys have experienced as well as what you think.
  9. No worries. Start by telling us what your equipment list is, how it's hooked up now and what you want to accomplish. I think we can come up with some help for you. Talk to you soon!
  10. I'm not completely sure what you are asking but here is the owner's manual for the XLS series. XLS Series Owner's Manual Look at figure 2.3 for balanced hook-up and look at figure 2.4 for unbalance hook-up. Good luck with your connections!
  11. Bud - Thanks for the reply. It helps just to see what you have experienced and think through this a little more. I like the idea of starting with the cabs and going backwards to what power they need. That seems obvious now that you mention it. I also understand your crossover point comment. The standard place is at 100Hz, but I'm glad that didn't through you off. I have a system that I am tweaking in a school where the tops we have don't go down far enough so I moved the crossover up to 182Hz. This releived the tops and helped fill in the low end. Getting back to the system that is under sub'ed... it is due to budget constraints that it is under. Here is the post that you can look at. I'll warn you, it is a long one... it is probably now the most viewed post on dbx drive rack forum. System install project on DBX Driverack forum Thanks for your thoughts and insights. Take care! PS I totally agree with aux fed subs. I am constantly amazed at how many installs are done without separating out the sub mix. That can really ruin your day and your system.
  12. Greg - I'll take a shot at starting this one and then let others comment as well. I just learned this from DGlass. Here's his response to my recent post on calculating power amp requirements for speakers. Amp Rating post information Here's the usual practice for determining amp power requirements. Take the continuous power rating of each speaker and multiply it by two. JRX 115's are rated 250 at 8 ohms so the 2X rating would be 500 watts. JRX118S is rated at 350 at 4 ohms so the 2X rating would be 700 watts. Then you can take that number and plug it into a range calcuation that will give you a range of amp output levels that will work for your needs. The range is .80x to 1.25x of the number we just calculated. If you plug this in you get the following for your speakers: JRX115 amp power range 400 to 625watts at 8 ohms. JRX118S amp power range would be 560 to 875 watts at 4 ohms. I would use this as a starting point. I just installed a JRX118S and I am using a Crown XLS 402D in Bridge mode which means my amp power rating for that load is 1140watts. So far so good. No fragments stuck in the walls. There are other amplifier selection considerations as well aside from power, like dampening factor, etc. But I'll leave that to an expert to comment on. Good luck with your system!
  13. I have a system to install and I think the low end is under powered and under represented in the number of cabinets. It seems like the low frequency components are out of proportion to the mid and high frequency components. Let's make some assumptions about the system: Rock music. Drums, bass, gtr, vocals, etc. Fairly flat response curve. No big bumps. No big holes. Is there a rule of thumb or ratio to look for in general? For example: is the low end power is generally 2.5 times the mid and high frequency power or something to that effect? So far I have 6 cabinets for mid-high and each of four cluster/channel groupings needs about 1250 watts of available power. Then I come to the two subs and they need 1500 watts each. This makes me think the power and the frequency response at a given spl will be weak in the low end. Since it takes less power to create a 10khz tone at a given spl, I assume it would take more at 1000hz and more at 100hz. So as we move from 20hz to 20,000hz, where is most of the power needed and what is the ratio of the power at or below 200hz to that which is above 200hz? I hope this makes sense. It's a bit past my bedtime. Thanks.
  14. Dave - A follow-up question. I got this down so far and I'm figuring out a system for a friend in Lexington. How do I use this method if I am connecting two speakers in parallel per channel that are rated 250 Watts at 8ohms? They will effectively show the amp 4 ohms, approx. (The actual load is JRX115i's x 2) My guess is you are going to say sum the continuous wattage to 500 and then double it. That would put me at needing 1000 watts and the second rule would look at a range of 800 to 1250. Thanks!